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Routes in Strategery Wall
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Art of War, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bearfoot Grylls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumble On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bumbler, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peckerwood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rumble in the Bumble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shield Maiden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Strategery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Weapons of Mass Deception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wood Pecker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | TBOL/EVD, 8/23/2014 |
| Page Views: | 807 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | tbol on Aug 24, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall
Details
The nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest is now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Information is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary area closure, including at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the north end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the main canyon to a point about 180' north of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
Survivin' expert!
This route was put up on lead over 3 days and involved a few aid falls even. It ended up being very well-protected (maybe a tad over protected) but very good nonetheless. The route is easily identified by a large, left-facing corner starting at bolt 5. This corner is clean, fun, and probably the crux of the sustained route. Clip long slings on bolts 8 and 16 and also on the two pins at the roof near the top of the route. The pins were great when we did the route, but be sure to check them before clipping them. The second one has a nice tied off hero loop to clip. There are opportunities to back these pins up with medium wires and small cams.
This route was put up on lead over 3 days and involved a few aid falls even. It ended up being very well-protected (maybe a tad over protected) but very good nonetheless. The route is easily identified by a large, left-facing corner starting at bolt 5. This corner is clean, fun, and probably the crux of the sustained route. Clip long slings on bolts 8 and 16 and also on the two pins at the roof near the top of the route. The pins were great when we did the route, but be sure to check them before clipping them. The second one has a nice tied off hero loop to clip. There are opportunities to back these pins up with medium wires and small cams.
Protection
16 quickdraws and 4 shoulder runners to a bomber 1/2" coldshut and chain anchor.
THIS ROUTE REQUIRES A 70 METER ROPE TO LOWER.
We removed some big blocks up and right on the top of the route; however, be vigilant as the upper section of the climb still has loose rock to either side of the easiest climbing. Also, keep this in mind when lowering or rapping.
THIS ROUTE REQUIRES A 70 METER ROPE TO LOWER.
We removed some big blocks up and right on the top of the route; however, be vigilant as the upper section of the climb still has loose rock to either side of the easiest climbing. Also, keep this in mind when lowering or rapping.
Photos
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