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DescriptionIf you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain. Getting ThereTo get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from v0-v11. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beardsley Boulders:
Classic Orange V0 Boulder, 15 feet
Mantle Puss V1 Boulder
Frosted Flakes V1 Boulder, 1 pitch, 8 feet
Hamstring V1+ Boulder, 8 feet
Monkey Lust V3 Boulder, 8 feet
The Prow V3 Boulder, 8 feet
Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 Boulder, 14 feet
Pencil Thin Flake V5 Boulder, 15 feet
Naked Bimbos from Mars 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Brown Sugar 5.7+ Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Spank Your Monkey 5.8 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet
The gripper 5.9 PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet
Grandma got run over by a raindeer 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage 5.9+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Hot Sweaty Buns 5.10a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Unnamed V3 5.11+ V3 TR, Boulder, 25 feet
Featured Route For Beardsley Boulders
Unnamed V3 5.11+ V3 AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Beardsley Boulders
Karabin's pocket guide calls it V3(TR) due to the (at the time) bad landing. Problem was later retro bolted and subsequently chopped.Problem is the furthest left problem on the boulder. Start low move to rail, somewhat beta intensive crux on sharp holds followed by a big reach to a crimp rail. Keep your head together and top out on jugs....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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