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Beardsley Boulders

Select Route:
Anarchy Crack T 
Brown Sugar S 
Classic Orange 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 
Flake, The TR 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 
gripper, The S 
Hamstring 
Hot Sweaty Buns S 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 
Unnamed V3 TR 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 

Beardsley Boulders 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Erock on Feb 27, 2006
Forecast:
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Clear
107° | 78°
Clear
109° | 81°
Clear
109° | 80°
Clear
108° | 82°
Clear
105° | 81°
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about 13 feet tall

Description 

If you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain.


Getting There 

To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from v0-v11.


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beardsley Boulders:
The Prow   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   
Monkey Lust   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   
The gripper   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Classics in Beardsley Boulders

Featured Route For Beardsley Boulders
Topping out. good perspective on its height

Unnamed V3 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Beardsley Boulders
Karabin's pocket guide calls it V3(TR) due to the (at the time) bad landing. Problem was later retro bolted and subsequently chopped.Problem is the furthest left problem on the boulder. Start low move to rail, somewhat beta intensive crux on sharp holds followed by a big reach to a crimp rail. Keep your head together and top out on jugs....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Beardsley Boulders
Photos of Beardsley Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Right side of "Split Boulders", looking at #4 in Marty's guide V0.
BETA PHOTO: Right side of "Split Boulders", looking at #...
With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsley Boulders are climbable...but increase a grade at night.
With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsle...
I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a great slide ! <br />Its about 15 feet tall i would say.
I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a g...
Pumpy boulder
Pumpy boulder
about 13 something feet tall
about 13 something feet tall
Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet tall.
Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet t...
rock on the right is about 16 feet tall
rock on the right is about 16 feet tall
up on the hill fun crack boulder
up on the hill fun crack boulder
About 16 feet tall
About 16 feet tall
Chuck Norris sleeping (kinda spotting). This was spring 1986 when boulder problems were being set up for contest.
Chuck Norris sleeping (kinda spotting). This was s...
Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stiff moves up and onto a ledge. Continue up crack and dont hesitate.
BETA PHOTO: Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stif...
The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems on this one.  <br /><a href='http://ClimbPHX.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ClimbPHX.com</a> <br />
The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems o...
about 7 feet tall
about 7 feet tall
Great route on the south side of the first large boulder  <br />
Great route on the south side of the first large b...
about 14 feet tall
about 14 feet tall
Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from Mars" V6, right is unnamed V5, on the back side is "Spiders from Pluto" V3 off width.
BETA PHOTO: Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from Mars" ...
Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs include "Spank your Monkey (5.8)" and "The Gripper (5.9)"
BETA PHOTO: Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs include "Span...
Really fun crack up by the routes
Really fun crack up by the routes
'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from near the parking area
BETA PHOTO: 'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from nea...
Beardsley bouldering
Beardsley bouldering
Comments on Beardsley Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By azagthoth
Nov 11, 2009

where is the v11?

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 18, 2011

I think I may have made an error on the V11. Can someone tell me what the hardest grade is out here? I will update it.

By Scott Z
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Jan 21, 2012

Karabin guide has V6 as the hardest problems. However that guide was circa 1994.