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Beardsley Boulders
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Select Route:
Anarchy Crack 
Brown Sugar 
Classic Orange 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The 
Flake, The 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer 
gripper, The 
Hamstring 
Hot Sweaty Buns 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Naked Bimbos from Mars 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Spank Your Monkey 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage 
Unnamed V3 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 

Beardsley Boulders 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Erock on Feb 27, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Chuck Norris sleeping (kinda spotting). This was s...

Description 

If you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain.


Getting There 

To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from v0-v11.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beardsley Boulders:
Classic Orange   V0     Boulder, 15 feet   
The Prow   V3     Boulder, 8 feet   
Pencil Thin Flake   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   
Naked Bimbos from Mars   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Spank Your Monkey   5.8 PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
The gripper   5.9 PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage   5.9+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Hot Sweaty Buns   5.10a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Browse More Classics in Beardsley Boulders

Featured Route For Beardsley Boulders
Topping out. good perspective on its height

Unnamed V3 5.11+ V3  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Beardsley Boulders
Karabin's pocket guide calls it V3(TR) due to the (at the time) bad landing. Problem was later retro bolted and subsequently chopped.Problem is the furthest left problem on the boulder. Start low move to rail, somewhat beta intensive crux on sharp holds followed by a big reach to a crimp rail. Keep your head together and top out on jugs....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Beardsley Boulders Slideshow Add Photo
Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet tall.

Don't have a name for this rock its about 8 feet t...

I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a great slide ! <br />Its about 15 feet tall i would say.

I call this slide rock as its smooth and makes a g...

about 13 something feet tall

about 13 something feet tall

rock on the right is about 16 feet tall

rock on the right is about 16 feet tall

About 16 feet tall

About 16 feet tall

about 13 feet tall

about 13 feet tall

about 7 feet tall

about 7 feet tall

about 14 feet tall

about 14 feet tall

Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs include "Spank your Monkey (5.8)" and "The Gripper (5.9)"

BETA PHOTO: Picture of "Lower Main Area". Climbs include "Span...

'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from near the parking area

BETA PHOTO: 'Fear Rock' and 'Lower main area' as seen from nea...

With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsley Boulders are climbable...but increase a grade at night.

With the lights from the industrial park, Beardsle...

The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems on this one.  <br /><a href='http://ClimbPHX.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ClimbPHX.com</a> <br />

The Boulder to end all boulders - Great problems o...

Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stiff moves up and onto a ledge. Continue up crack and dont hesitate.

BETA PHOTO: Fear Wall? Great crack traverse with a couple stif...

Great route on the south side of the first large boulder  <br />

Great route on the south side of the first large b...

Right side of "Split Boulders", looking at #4 in Marty's guide V0.

BETA PHOTO: Right side of "Split Boulders", looking at #...

Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from Mars" V6, right is unnamed V5, on the back side is "Spiders from Pluto" V3 off width.

BETA PHOTO: Spiders Boulder, left side is "Spiders from Mars" ...

up on the hill fun crack boulder

up on the hill fun crack boulder

Really fun crack up by the routes

Really fun crack up by the routes

Pumpy boulder

Pumpy boulder

Beardsley bouldering

Beardsley bouldering


Comments on Beardsley Boulders Add Comment
Show which comments
By azagthoth
Nov 11, 2009

where is the v11?

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 18, 2011

I think I may have made an error on the V11. Can someone tell me what the hardest grade is out here? I will update it.

By Scott Z
From: Peoria, AZ
Jan 21, 2012

Karabin guide has V6 as the hardest problems. However that guide was circa 1994.