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If you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain.
To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from v0-v11.
24 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Beardsley Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beardsley Boulders:
Classic Orange V0 4 Boulder, 15'
Mantle Puss V1 5 Boulder
Frosted Flakes V1 5 Boulder, 1 pitch, 8'
Hamstring V1+ 5 Boulder, 8'
Monkey Lust V3 6a Boulder, 8'
The Prow V3 6a Boulder, 8'
Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 6b Boulder, 14'
Pencil Thin Flake V5 6c Boulder, 15'
Naked Bimbos from Mars 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Brown Sugar 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Spank Your Monkey 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Grandma got run over by a raindeer 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The gripper 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Hot Sweaty Buns 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Unnamed V3 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a V3 6a TR, Boulder, 25'
Featured Route For Beardsley Boulders
Unnamed V3 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a V3 6a AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Beardsley Boulders
Karabin's pocket guide calls it V3(TR) due to the (at the time) bad landing. Problem was later retro bolted and subsequently chopped.Problem is the furthest left problem on the boulder. Start low move to rail, somewhat beta intensive crux on sharp holds followed by a big reach to a crimp rail. Keep your head together and top out on jugs....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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