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A challenging route with a short, obvious crux getting out of the dihedral.
Technically below the main face of DAFF on what could be considered the "foot" of the dome.
Standard single set of cams with stoppers should be fine. Crux is protected by a bolt.
|By Evan Riley|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 1, 2013
This climb is amazing. If it was in Super Taco it would get 10x the traffic. It is located on the right hand side on the standard approach to the West Crack area. It is easy to locate the route when walking to the west crack area by looking for the obvious dihedral and shiny chains of Cowabunga, the stout .12c immediately to the right of Bearded Clam. This is visible from the standard approach to the West Crack area.
The crux (only section of 11, ~2 moves) is well protected by a good bolt, so get on this thing. The rest of the route is 5.10 at hardest. The bolt is just left of the dihedral and can be tough to spot from the ground. A 70m is recommended for TRing if you are into that. It is also possible to set the TR from the top then rap down. Be sure to clip the bolt on the way down for a directional if you do this. Note there are not currently rap rings on the two bolts up top so bring your lockers. Until someone puts some rings up there you have to walk up and around (~5 mins) when you are done climbing this thing to retrieve your lockers.