Bearclaw 5.10c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Rocco Spina 1990 |
| Season: | When Dry |
| Submitted By: | philfell on Jul 2, 2009 |
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Description Shares the first bolt with Assault and Battery, but instead of going left, you go directly up the face.
Delicate slab climbing past the first 4 bolts, then you get a bit of a break heading to the 5th bolt, which is a little ways up and to the right. Past two more bolts on a steeper face, but good "holds" are there. After the last bolt you can either run it out to the top, or you can get in a few peices in the dirty corner to the left which I recommend.
Be careful on the run to the 5th bolt although it is easier climbing then below it is a bit of a run.
The climbing stays pretty thin and sustained throughout the climb.
You will also need some gear to set up an anchor up top to belay your second up.
Walk off
Location Right of Jellyroll look for the two slab climbs that share the first bolt. This one is the line that goes straight up.
Protection 6 draws a few finger size peices up top and some gear for an anchor
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 8, 2009
| Very nice slab climb! Very thin through the first 4 bolts with crux at climbing past 4th bolt. Dicey stance to clip crux bolt. I grabbed the sling to clip the rope as I thought I was about to slip off. Fell at crux and just kept same stance with all 4 points touching and slid in that same position till rope caught my fall. Fun fall! The route does ease after 4th bolt but still fun upper steep wall for a few moves. I climbed the face as much as possible above but was able to get much desired gear in crack system on left. Fun route but a tough one! |
By Josh Cameron
Aug 24, 2011
| Great slab climb and the run from the 4th to 5th bolt is a good distance, but the climbing begins to ease at that point. I also fell right before I clipped the 4th bolt. Slid down the slab with the quickdraw in my hand. Fun, fun, fun! |
By Rocco Spina
Aug 26, 2012
| The first bolt on Bearclaw go up right,superslide goes up left,ANB sits up by midgates 2 belay,as 2 1/4 bolts w/ wire hangers to cold shuts,maybe 30ft. |
By Rocco Spina
Aug 26, 2012
| I didnt do the first on bearclaw,Kevin Hac did the 1st |
By Kevin Hecka
From: Speed of Light
Nov 5, 2012
| Yo Rocklord! Long time no see.
Yeah, Rocco and I took this project on around 99? The direct up the water slide is the best run for your money.
climb on.
K. |
By Kevin Hecka
From: Speed of Light
Nov 21, 2012
| Btw...the description of this route's a bit off. 'Assault and Battery' is way off to the left of this route. Like Rocco said you can hook up with Mitigate if you straight on through the last 3 bolts and up.
Out,
Cpt. Cheesedog |
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