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Bear Tooth Mountain beta? Montana
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Dec 17, 2012
Me cleaning at neat rock on the standard route in ...
Here's a shot in the dark but, I was wondering if any body had any information on the Northwest face of Beartooth mountain in Montana. Hope to look into it this winter but any winter/summer climbing advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Patrick K.
From Bozeman
Joined Nov 8, 2009
275 points
Dec 21, 2012
Patrick,

I am in the same boat as you, meaning that I'm interested in some beta for Beartooth Climbing. I'm moving to Bozeman in February and am really psyched on doing routes there. It looks like everything I want in a climbing area. Long approaches, long trad routes, few people.

Maybe we can meet up at some point and find some routes to do?

All the best,

~Ian
ianjmayer@gmail.com
IJMayer
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Jan 5, 2011
107 points
Dec 21, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.
I highly doubt anyone is going to chime in with some beta since it's so obscure. You may want to try to e-mail Jack Tackle and see if he has any beta. He's responded to me in past regarding Beartooth beta. sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,471 points
Dec 25, 2012
woodandironworks.com/beartooth...

this should help.
T Howes
From Sisters, OR
Joined Dec 13, 2010
12 points
Dec 25, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Oh no...I looked at that beta and...my eyes, my eyes! I can't see...I think I'm blind...

Don't look, don't look!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Jan 30, 2013
Trad Lead, Lemon-aid - 5.10a R GoPro on Drone  AJ...
Nothing firsthand from me...yet, sorry.

The link above and this one is about all that I have found:
summitpost.org/beartooth-mount... (decent beta)

I have plenty of advice on hiking/AT skiing in that area, but have yet to find anyone with solid (first/second hand) climbing beta, especially in winter. I'll chat with more folks and let you know if I find anything out, but it's on my list for this summer.
GoHike
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2012
25 points
Administrator
Jan 30, 2013
El Chorro
If any of you know Wayne Harney (and you should if you spend any time in the Moab area) I think he has done the Silver Pillar and probably some more obscure stuff out there. He always has good beta. Originally from Bozeman but hangs in the desert most of the time now. If anyone is really desperate I could give him a shout and see what he comes up with. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Jan 30, 2013
on top of the RNWF June 2012
my buddies dad climbed it in winter a few years ago. said it was fun, but he's really hardcore. Don't ask for beta, the rad thing about the beartooths is that there really isn't much info because no one reports on what they've done. Pick a mountain, slog in the 10 or 15 miles, and climb. Check out the regulators episodes on Mulkeys site for the kind of terrain you'll be in for. Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
 
Jan 30, 2013
Cool snow formation at the base.
GoHike wrote:
Nothing firsthand from me...yet, sorry. The link above and this one is about all that I have found: summitpost.org/beartooth-mount... (decent beta) I have plenty of advice on hiking/AT skiing in that area, but have yet to find anyone with solid (first/second hand) climbing beta, especially in winter. I'll chat with more folks and let you know if I find anything out, but it's on my list for this summer.


Most of that beta is for the Bears Tooth. I think what Pat was originally talking about is the northwest face of Beartooth Mountain, which is a 20 pitch(ish) route mentioned in Turiano's book. Correct me if I'm wrong.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,471 points
Jan 30, 2013
on top of the RNWF June 2012
this should increase your stoke, if it doesn't I would advise against winter climbing in the beartooths.

coldfear.com/category/videos/

Next fall I would highly recommend you check out this route.
cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbt...
One of the coolest spots I've ever been to in MT (actually, it might be in WY by like 300 yards...).

The two day ascent is awesome if you have the time, it'd be an easy day trip, but camping up in the mountains is always good.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points
Jan 30, 2013
Me on Supercrack
Keenan Waeschle wrote:
my buddies dad climbed it in winter a few years ago. said it was fun, but he's really hardcore. Don't ask for beta, the rad thing about the beartooths is that there really isn't much info because no one reports on what they've done. Pick a mountain, slog in the 10 or 15 miles, and climb. Check out the regulators episodes on Mulkeys site for the kind of terrain you'll be in for.


Yes on this

The best thing about the Beartooths is that you get to figure everything out for yourself. This might seem a little annoying, but if it wasn't like this it would be just another ho-hum climbing area over run with people. The first time I went up to the Froze to Death plateau (20 years ago) it was like being on the moon. The last time I was there it felt like the parking lot at SuperCrack. Just pick something out & get after it. What ever you do it will be awesome. Not because there's anything special about the climbing, just because the place is incredible and every ascent feels like a first ascent.
MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Joined Dec 20, 2011
280 points
Jan 31, 2013
Trad Lead, Lemon-aid - 5.10a R GoPro on Drone  AJ...
"Select Alpine Climbs to Montana" by Ron Brunkhorst
Ian, you will want to get a copy.

Patrick, for your specific route the book says little more than that it's a Multiple Day trip 5.9ish (26 pitches most pitches are easier), the other link should give you a clue about the approach.

The ski approach in winter can be dangerous, that I can confirm from my experience skiing in the area. I have friends, who have been lucky enough to ski out of avalanches in that same area.
GoHike
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2012
25 points
Jan 31, 2013
Thanks! I picked up my copy about a week ago.

I'm looking for a partner for some summer alpine climbing (Absaroka and Beartooth Ranges especially)! Lots of multi-pitch rock experience. No snow experience but I have the gear and the psyche!
IJMayer
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Jan 5, 2011
107 points
Feb 1, 2013
Ian,
I am also looking for partners for the Beartooth range this coming summer for big multi-pitch climbs. I spent 5 weeks in the Beartooths last summer and can easily spend 10 more just climbing. There are some steep snow routes I am also interested in. I hope to make a few trips to the Beartooths before May then a really big one in July.
Matt
Matt Lemke
From Red Lodge, MT
Joined Jan 10, 2012
2 points


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