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Bear Mountain Picnic 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 5,724
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (92)
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the view at the top


One of the more aesthetic and exposed routes at Foster Falls, Bear Mountain Picnic is fairly stiff for the grade. Try to find someone with a camera to go up the hill and get a picture of you profiled against the sky as you lead the arete!

Starting on the ledge below a roof, stem off of boulders until you can clip the first bolt, then pull the overhang and make delicate moves out right to a ledge. From here, follow the pretty and slightly overhanging arete on good holds to the top.


Jimmywood section; starts on a wide ledge above the trail, about 10' left of .38 Special.


6 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos of Bear Mountain Picnic Slideshow Add Photo
Great warm-up climb.
Great warm-up climb.
fun sport just alittle stiff for the rating
fun sport just alittle stiff for the rating
Jared on the route
Jared on the route
last few moves
last few moves
Quick rest before finishing the route.
Quick rest before finishing the route.
Cleaning up the route
Cleaning up the route

Comments on Bear Mountain Picnic Add Comment
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By grizz
Apr 6, 2008

The initial move is definitely hard for 5.8. I also found a few of the bolt placements to be less than ideal with potential falls on to ledges and such. The exposure of the arete is quite thrilling. A lot of rope drag if you do not use some long draws in places as I remember.
By Sumbit
From: My house
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really fun exposeed arete. Bolts were okay, don't know if there would be a better way to bolt it, have to take what the rock gives us. An 11 leader will have a blast on this, an 8/9 leader will shake a little but the holds are all there, just exposed.
By willeslinger
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great climb up an interesting rock formation with one of the those great views up top that only climbers can see... man.

I would suggest a crash for summer climbing. The first bit of climbing is really slippery when you're sweating, and the rock down below is nasty (not to mention the fall someone spotting you stands to take if you hit them too hard)
By jaredmartin35
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i did this climb for a warm up and loved it. i climbed it 3 times after that. i got the profile against the sky picture as well. usually routes at that grade aren't alot of fun, they're just good warm ups, but this one is definitely worth doing no matter what you climb. you'll probably want an experienced belayer if you plan on leading and don't know if you can make it. my friend fell and i caught him, but i had to make sure he had enough slack not to smack his head on the roof but not so much that he hit the ground. i think i got lucky he swung right under the roof and no problems or accidents. (whew)
By Chad Burdyshaw
From: Signal Mountain TN
Aug 26, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb! I agree the start can be a little challenging for beginners, but can be easily bypassed by approaching route from the right. Also the belay ledge is a small rock platform about 30' up from the trail so you might want to anchor your belayer to one of the nearby trees.

Start of Bear Mountain Picnic
Start of Bear Mountain Picnic
By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Dec 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Harder than 5.8 IMHO, and novice leaders should expect this not to be an easy "picnic" that being said good warm up. All but beginning of route is in shade. Makes it a bit cold for winter mornings.
By Jason Watts
From: Boulder,CO
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

scared the piss outta me when i first climbed it. Could climb 9, but had never done anything this "bold". I will always remember the move out from under the roof. great climb for anyone serious about the sport.
By CraigS.
May 25, 2012

Tough for the beginning leader that I am. Did some other 5.9's that felt better than this. Good holds are there, just takes time to find. Get's hot up top!
By Brad Edwards
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 8, 2012

This was one of my first leads and I think really set me up to do other stuff that had some exposure. Super classic.
By BeauTrivers
3 days ago

This is a great exposed arete but the bolt placement is poor - evaluate it carefully before leading as there multiple places a fall results in decking. Could have been protected much more safely than it is without 'over bolting.'

Caution new leaders - don't let the '8' be your only consideration when looking at this route. I have a friend who was with an '11' leader that took a fall here and broke either one or both ankles.
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