|76 page views|
There are 2 cruxes for this route, first getting started, as for the traditional route on this rock, and a second one up just a few feet from the top, just before grasping the horn above the narrow rib of flat, red rock.
Pull onto the low spot on the face just left of a shallow, rounded corner, then head up that corner and to the right side of the rock, arriving at a flat and narrow stripe (2' wide) of bright, red rock. Climb directly up the arete over that red stripe, grabbing crimps and sidepulls on either side of it, encountering a second crux going to the jug at the top of the stripe. Continue a few meters more on easier terrain to the summit.
This route starts up the low spot on the steep East face of the Hillbilly Boulder between the Southern Hillbilly Flatironette and the Hillbilly Flatiron proper.
I did the route free solo, and I didn't see any opportunity for protection, but perhaps I overlooked something. Be ready to get heady.