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Hillbilly Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Hug T 
Billy Goat Arete T 
Deb's Day Off TR 
East Face Center/Hillbilly T 
East Face South Side/Hillbilly T 
Jessica's Line (aka HBF Front Boulder) T 
Jethro T 
North Face T 
North Ridge (aka HBF Middle Boulder) T 
West Face S 
West Face Right S 
Unsorted Routes:
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Bear Hug 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ? Tony Bubb ? Solo, 7/27.
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 27, 2012

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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


There are 2 cruxes for this route, first getting started, as for the traditional route on this rock, and a second one up just a few feet from the top, just before grasping the horn above the narrow rib of flat, red rock.

Pull onto the low spot on the face just left of a shallow, rounded corner, then head up that corner and to the right side of the rock, arriving at a flat and narrow stripe (2' wide) of bright, red rock. Climb directly up the arete over that red stripe, grabbing crimps and sidepulls on either side of it, encountering a second crux going to the jug at the top of the stripe. Continue a few meters more on easier terrain to the summit.


This route starts up the low spot on the steep East face of the Hillbilly Boulder between the Southern Hillbilly Flatironette and the Hillbilly Flatiron proper.


I did the route free solo, and I didn't see any opportunity for protection, but perhaps I overlooked something. Be ready to get heady.

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