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Routes in Conley Cove
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Bear hug T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nubs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Procrastination T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Throw gear here T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Willy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Where There's a Willy (There's a Way) T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Willy Wonky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 909 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jul 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
This is a fun hard line (for me) that starts off a bit grungy but finishes up an excellent steep dihedral on bomber quartzite. With closely spaced bolts it is safe and worth a go for the grade.
Start slightly left of the arete 20 feet up. Move up the easy/chossy face past some gear and towards the arete. Climb it past 2 bolts (10ish) to a ledge below the steep dihedral. Note: One could climb the face to the left also, but the arete is cool. Move up a few feet to get a #1 tcu that protects the move to the 3-bolt line above. Some powerful climbing on small holds gets you to better holds and a surprisingly pumpy finish. Lower from anchor at the top.
Start slightly left of the arete 20 feet up. Move up the easy/chossy face past some gear and towards the arete. Climb it past 2 bolts (10ish) to a ledge below the steep dihedral. Note: One could climb the face to the left also, but the arete is cool. Move up a few feet to get a #1 tcu that protects the move to the 3-bolt line above. Some powerful climbing on small holds gets you to better holds and a surprisingly pumpy finish. Lower from anchor at the top.
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