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Routes in The Bear Gun
|
Bear Fight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
Polar Bear T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Kevin Kent, Emily Reinsel, 2/2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,020 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Kent on Feb 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This route ascends the north face of the Bear Gun in two pitches. See the Bear Gun page for all the wonderful history.
P1: Start with low angle junky climbing until you reach a nice ledge (some may want to solo this part to belay higher). From the ledge step out onto a thin face and traverse past a bolt. When you get to a stance go up the cracks to a large ledge. Walk right and belay behind the bush at the base of the handcrack corner.
P2: The money. Go up beautiful thin hands crack. After 40' or so a fingercrack splitter on the right face materializes just close enough to reach. Move into this and enjoy the goodness as the splitter slowly widens from .3 to #3 as it takes you to the top, passing a small ledge in the middle that might still have a little loose rock. In the final 20' the crack widens further (save the #4 for here) but eases up considerably.
Rap off to the saddle. 70m rope works but it's tight and exposed.
P1: Start with low angle junky climbing until you reach a nice ledge (some may want to solo this part to belay higher). From the ledge step out onto a thin face and traverse past a bolt. When you get to a stance go up the cracks to a large ledge. Walk right and belay behind the bush at the base of the handcrack corner.
P2: The money. Go up beautiful thin hands crack. After 40' or so a fingercrack splitter on the right face materializes just close enough to reach. Move into this and enjoy the goodness as the splitter slowly widens from .3 to #3 as it takes you to the top, passing a small ledge in the middle that might still have a little loose rock. In the final 20' the crack widens further (save the #4 for here) but eases up considerably.
Rap off to the saddle. 70m rope works but it's tight and exposed.
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