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Small wall just off the Bear Canyon loop trail, a few miles away from Ortega Falls. Right next to a creek and shady much of the day. Ronnie St. Jean was the first to bring this area to Mt. Project, listing a route under Ortega falls and giving directions.
Park in the bear canyon loop trail parking lot, located across the street from the candy store a couple miles down the road from the Ortega waterfall. From the north end of the lot hike north on the trail for about 5 min. you will see the route as you approach. you can't miss it, it's the first "view" you have on the trail. when you pass the hand rail veer right on a small climbers trail to the top of the climb. Rap down or take the trail along the creek down. (Credit: Ronnie St. Jean)
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in San Juan Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Juan Canyon:
S's Bane 2 V0 4 Boulder, 12'
The Fermi Level 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
The Randy Moss 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c TR, 1 pitch, 35'
The Conduction Band 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Unknown 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Route 3 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For San Juan Canyon
The Fermi Level 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : ... : San Juan Canyon
Simple but fun hand crack. Crux possibly around 10ft up, but it is a pretty sustained 5.7 throughout. Start right of the face and follow the crack up and left before finishing straight up....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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