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This is a good climb with some interesting moves. This route starts with a few hard moves to reach and then to pass the first bolt, then cruises up past some more bolts and the true crux, continuing to the top of the arete, or wherever you decide to belay. The crux is pulling up on slopers on a shelf at mid-route and is 5.11.
Take some gear from 3/4" to 3" to belay from, as there is no anchor up top.
This route is the bolted arete left of Hambanger, on the "Bean Liquor Wall" (upper West face of Bell Buttress, up a gully).
Several bolts to a topout and belay on gear. A set of cams and a few nuts or tricams will make the belay and protect any path to it.
Climb back down to rap from the anchors on Hambanger after the real climbing is over.
|By Rich Kelly|
Oct 20, 2006
The last (6th) bolt is very well hidden on a ramp about 15' up and slightly right after you top out above the crux. You can't see it till you peek over the edge and you need a slightly longer draw for it so the biner is not hanging on the edge. From this bolt, you can see the 2 bolt anchor another 12' above.
I clipped the 3rd bolt from the right, and it was not trivial to do, with a huge fall potential. I did not bring any gear, but my buddy said there was a crack to the right that could offer protection while clipping it. I thought getting past the 3rd bolt (again starting from the right - looking at Rolofson's guide, he shows an alternate way from the left which I did not try) was solid 10. Hint: keep moving/reaching left once you get the one good hold above where you clipped the 3rd bolt.
First ascent was Rick Leitner, 1997.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Sep 21, 2010
The third bolt is not hard to clip (approach it from the left), but it's in a really poor spot, and too high, and if you slipped there it could be disastrous.
The crux is tricky.
|By Sean Haney|
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
Great route! Cool moves in the beginning and coolest moves up high on the crux. Thought it was better than Hambanger.