Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'
Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.
Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.
Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2008
BTW. Some larger angles and some z pins to stack were nice to have. This is an AWESOME ROUTE!!! GO DO IT!!!!
|By Ben Kiessel|
Mar 23, 2014
Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day.
My gear suggestions...
-bring swim goggles
-single set micro cams
-triple set from green alien to #2 camalot
-4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6
-a set of stoppers
-5 sets of peckers
-blades, LA, angles, z-pins
-2 lead lines for the last pitch
Great climbing, amazing line!
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Mar 26, 2014
"Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"
Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.
Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.
My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben!