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The Oracle
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Beak to the Future 
Beaking In Tongues 
Fantasia 

Beaking In Tongues 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A4

   
Type: Aid, 7 pitches, 700', Grade VI
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A4 [details]
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett, Dave Levine April 1997
Page Views: 3,676
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on Jan 14, 2008
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Here we are on pitch 3.

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Description 

Pitch one - 20 feet of mud manteling leads to a #1 pecker placement. Beaks are interspersed with some good cam placements (A3).(140')
Pitch two - More mud groveling up and left. You pretty much are following the splitter(A2).(100')
Pitch three - Again, more splitter mud leads up and left. I had to back clean a fair bit of this pitch(A2+).(140')
Pitch four - Mud and crack left for the last time(A3)(60').
Pitch five - Traverse right on improbable #1 beaks and tipped out #4 and #5 camalots until you get to a beak seam leading up to anchors that are hidden by a bulge.(A3+)
Pitch six - More #1 beaking to the saddle (A4)
Pitch seven - Two 15' pendulums right lead to the large muddy crack that leads to the summit. The rope drag is absolutely horrible.(5.8 A3) 180'

Descent: Rappel the route. We added an extra bolt at the third rappel station.


Location 

Hike the Fishers Trail around past Cottontail. After the metal stairs, hike up the yellow ridge that drops down between the south side of echo and the oracle. Hike up pretty high before cutting out right to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Beaks, beaks and more beaks. If you don't bring beaks on this route, you are foolish. For most of the pitches the largest cam you need is a number 3 camalot. However, there are two pitches where we found a #4 and #5 camalot to be pretty essential. Other than that, just bring the standard fishers aid jingus.



Photos of Beaking In Tongues Slideshow Add Photo
View from the route
View from the route
Bomber!!!
Bomber!!!
Pitch 2???
Pitch 2???
Starting pitch 2??? Can't remember cuz I was drinking.
Starting pitch 2??? Can't remember cuz I was drink...
Matt leading pitch 5.
Matt leading pitch 5.
This photo was taken by Riley over on the Kingfisher. We are at the notch me thinks???
This photo was taken by Riley over on the Kingfish...
A bomber equalized piece
A bomber equalized piece
The route as well as a good visual of the "yellow" ridge you hike up to get to the base of the route. Far left of photo is the start of Brer Rabbit on Cottontail.
The route as well as a good visual of the "yellow"...
On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the void of #1 beaks.
On pitch five, getting ready to head off into the ...
Another Riley photo taken from the Kingfisher.
Another Riley photo taken from the Kingfisher.
Joe on pitch 1
Joe on pitch 1
Matt following pitch 6.
Matt following pitch 6.
Comments on Beaking In Tongues Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Jan 15, 2008

Thanks for posting! Your trip report on supertopo was very entertaining.
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=488833&msg=5>>>
Nice Job.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 8, 2008

BTW. Some larger angles and some z pins to stack were nice to have. This is an AWESOME ROUTE!!! GO DO IT!!!!

Jeremy

By Ben Kiessel
Mar 23, 2014

Matt and I climbed this last week in two days. Fixed the first 4 then did the last 3 on day two. This route is definitely climbable in a long day.
My gear suggestions...

-bring swim goggles
-single set micro cams
-triple set from green alien to #2 camalot
-4-5 #3 camalots, 2-3 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6
-a set of stoppers
-hybrid aliens
-2 specters
-5 sets of peckers
-blades, LA, angles, z-pins
-2 lead lines for the last pitch

Great climbing, amazing line!

DO IT!!!

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 24, 2014

Nice job guys!

Jeremy

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Mar 26, 2014

"Matt and I climbed this last week in two days"

Two days? In my memory, the FA took, like, most of one spring's worth of weekends.

Cannot imagine doing the first four pitches in just one day.

My mind is severely overboggled. Excellent work, Ben!