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The Oracle
Select Route:
Beak to the Future T 
Beaking In Tongues 
Fantasia T 

Beak to the Future 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3+ [details]
FA: Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen, November, 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: ALL YEAR BABY!
Page Views: 882
Submitted By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 15, 2012

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Starting up pitch 4 on a wobbly Spectre.

Description 

Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.

1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.

2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.

Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux. I had to take everything off just to fit in. If you are much bigger than me (5'10, 160) you might have issues.

Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.

Follow Fantasia to the top.

Rap the route.



Rack:

5 x #1 Peckers
20 x #2 Peckers
15 x #3 Peckers
6 x Spectres
2 x cams small to #5

This is a really good STEEP route. BTW, the A2+ might seem easy or it might seem not so easy depending on your situation.


Protection 



Photos of Beak to the Future Slideshow Add Photo
More STEEPNESS!
More STEEPNESS!
TOPO
BETA PHOTO: TOPO
Summit! Boy it was cold!
Summit! Boy it was cold!
Oracle face!
Oracle face!
Beaking in Tongues in blue, Beak to the Future in red.
Beaking in Tongues in blue, Beak to the Future in ...
Jugging pitch one. You can see where the route goes right just above Paul.
Jugging pitch one. You can see where the route goe...
More pitch 4 action.
More pitch 4 action.
Looks like the gear was in a cat's litter box.
Looks like the gear was in a cat's litter box.
What a beauty!
What a beauty!
Paul on pitch 3. This is the MONEY pitch of the route.
Paul on pitch 3. This is the MONEY pitch of the ro...
Long way to go.
Long way to go.
Comments on Beak to the Future Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Dec 30, 2012

yeah! Sounds and looks like a very cool route, fantastic job putting that together!

The face under that side of the Oracle is the absolute best in or anywhere near the Fishers, so steep and big and featureless and cool.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 2, 2013

I think pretty much everyone realizes that a rack calling for 40+ beaks is most likely not really A2+.

Looks awesome! Love your trip report.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 28, 2013

Grade updated to something more realistic. Don't tell Paul.

;-)

JA