Beak to the Future  5.10 A3+

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700 feet Consensus:  5.10 A3+ [details] FA:  Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen, November, 2012 New Route:  Yes Season:  ALL YEAR BABY! Submitted By:  Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 15, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Beaking in Tongues in blue, Beak to the Future in ...

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Description 

Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.

1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.

2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.

Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux. I had to take everything off just to fit in. If you are much bigger than me (5'10, 160) you might have issues.

Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.

Follow Fantasia to the top.

Rap the route.



Rack:

5 x #1 Peckers
20 x #2 Peckers
15 x #3 Peckers
6 x Spectres
2 x cams small to #5

This is a really good STEEP route. BTW, the A2+ might seem easy or it might seem not so easy depending on your situation.

Protection 

Photos of Beak to the Future Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: TOPO	Oracle face!	Jugging pitch one. You can see where the route goe...
Looks like the gear was in a cat's litter box.	Paul on pitch 3. This is the MONEY pitch of the ro...	Starting up pitch 4 on a wobbly Spectre.
More pitch 4 action.	Summit! Boy it was cold!	What a beauty!
More STEEPNESS!	Long way to go.