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 ADVANCED
Beacon Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Bears in Heat T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Cruisin' T 
Dorian's Dilemma T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Fireballs T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Gitmo Love Machine T 
Head Case T,S 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pipeline T 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Siege Tactics T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Beacon Rock  


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Location: 45.6272, -122.0207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 37,138
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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Description 

A lone 850í basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge, Beacon Rock is an obvious climbing destination for Portland climbers. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon Rock has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of Beacon Rock which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

It will make a lot more sense to sort the routes Right to Left in the route listing, since the only climber's trail traverses the wall right to left. Some routes (Fireball, Gitmo, etc.) are on the separate NE face, but are rarely climbed.

Getting There 

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as itís a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

36 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',14],['5.11',7],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beacon Rock:
South East Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Little Wing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Free for All   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Cruisin'   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Right Gull   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'   
Jill's Thrill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Young Warriors   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Free For All, Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Blownout   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Flying Dutchman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Fear of Flying   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Windsurfer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Winter Delight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Rise Up   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Blood, Sweat, and Smears   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   
Free for Some   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Pipeline   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Windwalker   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Beacon Rock

Featured Route For Beacon Rock
A Basalt Beauty

Free for Some 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13  WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock
A testpiece of Beacon climbing. Free for Some starts in the thin crack to the right of the Windsurfer corner. Hard moves off the ground with the crux coming down low has led to more than one injured climber. Climb up the gradually widening crack to an intermediate anchor or continue up to a ledge and bolted anchors with chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Beacon Rock Slideshow Add Photo
The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
BETA PHOTO: The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
South Face of Beacon Rock
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Beacon Rock

Comments on Beacon Rock Add Comment
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 23, 2006
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.

The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris.
By Jonas Salk
Aug 6, 2011
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure!