Beached Whale (Unknown 2)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 20 votes
Type: | Sport, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,326 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | rob bauer on Dec 29, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is not mine, but it is an interesting route with 2 cruxes.
The 1st bolt is hidden in a dish about 10' up, just left of that tree (not the best place; it may actually be for Easy Out). I didn't use it, since I started a few feet to the left, angling slightly toward the big ledge with obvious bolts in the headwall. Surmount this and get to the bulgy crux (where I executed a Beached Whale maneuver). I believe the original line went over the bulge using the crack 4' left, but the new bolts go straight up to the anchor.
Pretty nifty!
The 1st bolt is hidden in a dish about 10' up, just left of that tree (not the best place; it may actually be for Easy Out). I didn't use it, since I started a few feet to the left, angling slightly toward the big ledge with obvious bolts in the headwall. Surmount this and get to the bulgy crux (where I executed a Beached Whale maneuver). I believe the original line went over the bulge using the crack 4' left, but the new bolts go straight up to the anchor.
Pretty nifty!
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