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Beachball Crag

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Across From The Wave 
Beach Blanket Bingo 
Breaking the Law 
Buddha Babies On the Beach 
His Feet Smell 
Masters of the Obvious 
Outside, It's America 
Reach the Beach 
Red Argyle 
Rip's Roof 
Rubble Without A Cause 
Sneak-a-Peak Arete 
Sneak-a-Peak Arete Direct Start 
SPF 25 
Turtwig 
Unknown on Far Right 
Unknown on Left 
Was His Name-O 
Waterfront 

Beachball Crag 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,495'
Location: 40.623, -111.761 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,079
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 13, 2003
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SPF 25....Always a good quicky!

Description 

This short crag has a few nice moderate trad routes, a one minute approach, and is very shady. The crag is also very streamside and some of the routes start directly out of the water. This makes for a very good summer crag for toproping or trad climbing.


Getting There 

Beachball Crag is on the right side of the road a mile and a half up the canyon. It is shortly after Dogwood Crag, and just before the roadside bouldering on the Wave Wall. There is a pullout on the right just past the Ledgemere Picnic Area, and you can cross the stream easily to get to the base of the routes. Walkoff is possible on both sides of the crag.


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beachball Crag:
Masters of the Obvious   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Beachball Crag

Featured Route For Beachball Crag
Good clean fun! Nice easy route at the Beachball.

Reach the Beach 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Beachball Crag
Reach the Beach climbs the rightward trending horizontal cracks climbing the wall avoiding the roof by going to the right of it. It is 30 feet or so to the right of the gully. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Beachball Crag
Comments on Beachball Crag Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2004

There was a new route on the Crag next to (left of) the 5.10 and 5.8, kinda up the gully. Can't remember the names of the climbs. Someone chopped the bolts on it. Why would they do this? It was a face, with no possible natural pro. I thought it was a fun albeit easy route. Also there were chains for the 5.10 that goes over the little roof, they are gone as well. What gives? I understand maybe the chains for the 5.10 weren't supposed to be there or something. But why chop all the bolts off of such a fun little route? It was a totally legitimate route, and the bolts were placed well, I don't understand. Does anyone know about this?

By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009

A couple friends and I have recently been trying to clean this area up.
A few weeks ago we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree that had fallen on Spf 25. it was a nice feeling knowing that I was the first to climb the route in several years. I also climbed the fat crack to the right of spf 25 and think I got a posible f.a. It goes at 5.9. I would like to call it The Beached Whale if I did get the f.a.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 29, 2009

"...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."

That's a strong woman!

By Andrew May
From: Sandy, UT
May 21, 2011

Has anyone been up here yet this year? I'd rather not make the drive if it's still snowed in.

By Chris DeSantis
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2012

I was just up at Beachball crag and found at least three (3) top-rope anchors had been removed. Why someone would chop anchors at this crag makes absolutely no sense to me. Sure you can set trad-anchors in some places but not everyone has the gear or skill set to do that. I would think we would like to encourage climbing for all people at all levels without getting anyone injured. Besides it is all short, low grade stuff that real climbers wouldnít bother with but itís great for new folks or kids. Iíve personally free soloed all over the whole damn thing and have lots of trad gear, but, I have friends with small children that love the security of a top-rope and I canít always be there to set anchors for them.

In any case, I plan to re-bolt the anchors. And while Iím usually a traditional old school hand driller, Iím bringing a Bosch for this project. If anyone can add some insight on why the anchors were removed or have any concerns or suggestions on the placement of new hangers please feel free to contact me.

Chris

By zoso
Jul 8, 2012

I applaud your transparency.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jul 9, 2012

Second applaud

By Brian Taylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 8, 2012

Any status update on the state of those new anchors? I'm planning on heading up here on Friday and am wondering if I should plan on building my own anchors or not. Thanks!