A beautiful state park surrounding a large pond straddling the border of RI and CT, with a nice beginner top rope crag, bouldering ledges and a handfull of eggs. Most of the climbing is at the southern end of the pond, but there is a decent bouldering area on the north side near the boat ramp. Access is usually 1-10 minutes hike from the car. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with ocasianal quartz bands and large crystals.
Head west on RI 165 to the CT boarder. For the top rope crag and Deadwood areas park at the smaller lot(41.5738, -71.7854) on the southern side of the road just before you drive over the pond, across from the main beach lot. Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).
Start on a pinch in thecenter of the cave about eye level, pull on and do some techy/burly moves through slopy crimps and pinches, then make a big dyno to the Manhandled crack and finish Manhandled . ...[more]Browse More Classics in Rhode Island
Nope, on the RI side there is a dirt lot on the left across from the beach before you cross the pond on 165. Follow the trail south along the water. This area is pretty rustic, have fun.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Dec 24, 2012
I fixed the directions to make them a little clearer. Marc had combined the directions to both north and south spots, so I spent a couple hours wondering around on the north side from the boat launch looking for a bridge:))