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South Summit Wall
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Be Here Now 
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Da Black and Gold 
Expanding Man 
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Heart of Gold 
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Taivallista 

Be Here Now 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: S. Ohkawa, M. Root, and Unknown, Summer '08
New Route: Yes
Season: June-September
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: mountainsense on Sep 17, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: the red line shows the approximate line of the fir...

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Description 

This route begins on the brown patina face just downhill from the Gold Wall gully. Originally established in two shorter pitches, the lower half of the route features stellar, 5.9 face and crack climbing and can be toproped from an intermediate stance with a bolt--the bolt can be backed up using finger to hand-sized gear...
The upper half, however, is the business: if climbing the line as a long, single pitch, continue past the bolt where you'll encounter tenuous stemming above tricky, thin gear. Routefind your way to an alcove beneath a small roof. Pull the roof to gain the exposed, parallel cracks above, then finish on patina holds, ala the City of Rocks, to a comfortable ledge along the ridge. Belay takes 1" to 2.5". A large, slung block--to the climber's right--provides an escape; a double-rope rappel reaches the base.


Protection 

Bring doubles in cams from micros to 2.5", RPs and wires--offsets useful--and plenty of long slings!



Photos of Be Here Now Slideshow Add Photo
about to enter the crux on the first ascent...
about to enter the crux on the first ascent...
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By mountainsense
Sep 17, 2008

The Ruckman guide writes of the Merciful Traverse, II 5.6 (D. Bell, C. Giddings, A. Kelner, 1958): "Follow the southwest ridge to the summit, which intersects the Open Book route on its terminal pitches."
Has anyone ever done this route? I believe Be Here Now can be linked to this obscure ridge climb--if so, the first integral ascent awaits!

By James Garrett
Sep 17, 2008

Congrats Shingo on a couple of new recent cool sounding lines up in LPC...
am I the only one too blind to notice the red topo lines drawn in on the photos, though? for the life of me , I don't see them? Could you please draw them in thicker for us blind guys? Thanks!