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MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
British Columbia shares the Canadian Rockies with Alberta because the BC-Alberta border follows the crest of the range. In between the Columbia River and Alberta, some of the biggest summits are found wholly on the British Columbia side of the crest. For example; Mount Robson, Mount Bryce, Mt Stanley, and The Goodsirs. Many others are shared by both provinces; Mount Assiniboine for example. ROCK CLIMBING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
The British Columbia side of the Canadian Rockies used to be vast wilderness with no cragging areas like Grassi Lakes, Yamnuska, or Back of the Lake. The wilderness has dwindled and with better access there are now some interesting possibilities.
Near the town of Spillamacheen
is a popular limestone sport climbing area. If weather is a problem in the Bugaboos, then Spillamacheen is the nearest low altitude crag.
photo by MP administrator
There is another well developed limestone crag above the town of Canal Flats; Mount Sabine
Guides with the Icefall Brook Lodge
have developed a crag called Tivoli.
Photo by Icefall Brook Lodge
Last, but not least, of my examples is the long bolted 5.7 on the Takakkaw Falls Wall
WATERFALL ICE IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
TAKAKKAW FALLS WALL
12 pitches, 5.7, PG13
Back in the 1970's, the first ascent of Takakkaw Falls was big news (Yoho NP). Nearby, there are commonly climbed frozen waterfalls above the town of Field, BC. Above Highway 93, in Kootenay National Park are the famous pillars found on the Stanley Headwall. The ice flow draped gorge of Icefall Brook might be as good or better than anything else. However, using helicopters is necessary to get there in winter. GUIDE BOOKS The 11,000ers
of the Canadian Rockies, by Bill Corbet, 2009. This book has the most recent information for the standard routes for the biggest mountains in the Canadian Rockies. Selected Alpine Climbs
in the Canadian Rockies, by Sean M Dougherty, 1991. This book has the basics for the serious climber's tick list, including the most notable technical climbs on the biggest faces on the high peaks. The book does not have good maps but give the specific , so use the suggestions make a list of all the maps Dougherty suggests for your tick list, and then order the maps from Canada's Geologic Survey.
There is always a Bow Valley Rock
book out to guide one to the vast selection of sport routes in Alberta.
The most current comprehensive climbing guide the Canadian Rockies is now old and out of print. For those who want information on peaks not found in the selected climbs book, try finding The Rocky Mountains of Canada North & The Rocky Mountains of Canada South
, by William L Putnam & Robert Kruszyna, AAC & ACC, 1921 - 1985. A few good summits, not found in the Dougherty book, are described in the old guide. For example, Mount Saskatchewan, near the Columbia Icefield, or peaks north of Mount Robson, like Mount Ida. The American Alpine Club Library has multiple copies in Golden, Colorado. I'm pretty certain the Alpine Club of Canada has it in the libraries at either the Canmore Clubhouse or Lake Louise Mountaineering Center.
Note that many of the Canadian Rockies peaks are located in Alberta, not British Columbia. If you cannot find a peak you are looking for, it may be located on the Alberta page
I can't access the text below this note. Otherwise, I would delete the Mtn of BC text below and fix any mistakes on the highest peaks list.
Highest Peaks of the Canadian Rockies
English units, instead of metric, makes a nicer cut for defining major peaks. There are 54 summits above 11,000 feet. British Columbia makes a good showing in the top ten:`
2. Columbia (12,294) BC/Alberta
3. North Twin (12,085) Alberta
4. Clemenceau (11,991) BC
5. Forbes (11,902) Alberta
6. Twins Tower (11,900)
8. Alberta (11,840) Alberta
9. South Twin (11,749)
10. Goodsir (11,686) BC
Bonus: a few more
12. Bryce (11,507) BC
Other peaks in BC: Resplendent (11,240), Whitehorn (11,139), Tsar (11,232), Mt King George (11,226), and all the Canadian Rockies from Mount Ida northward.
The Mountain Ranges of British Columbia
The North American Cordillera attains maximum width in British Columbia. For nearly a century, the Canadian Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, and geographic scientists have divided British Columbia's copious mountains into three big ranges; the Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mountains ,and Coast Range. Each range has a characteristic geology that supports this overarching classification.
Sedimentary rocks predominate in the Canadian Rockies. The strata are easily seen on the mountains because under the Rockies a thicker, older, crust was more resistant to deformation by tectonic forces from the west.
The Columbia Mountains
are separated from the Rockies by a fault valley called the Columbia River Trench. The metamorphic rocks are often of the chossy variety. However, there is good rock too, like the quartzite peaks of Rogers Pass and occasional granitic plutons, like the Bugaboos or Adamants.
The Coast Range
has exposed one of the world's largest igneous batholiths. North America's tectonic collision with the Coast Range squeezed the rocks of the Columbia Mountains against the tougher crust underlying the Rockies.
Weather station 3.1 miles from here
20 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in BC's Canadian Rockies
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for BC's Canadian Rockies:
Featured Route For BC's Canadian Rockies
Kain Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
AI3 Steep Snow North America
: ... : Mount Robson
The Kain Route is the original way up Mount Robson. There once was a huge serac that loomed over part of the face, but glacial wasting has now removed the threat. Currently, this is probably the safest way to climb Robson. Remote climbing with low odds for success given the weather, snow conditions and logistics. Still once you get your shot, moderate to steep snow and ice climbing up the Kain Face and then moderate climbing up snow and ice faces and around gargoyles of ice leads to a large su...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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