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BETA PHOTO: MOUNT ASSINIBOINE from a photo by Don Harmon purc... .MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
There is another well developed limestone crag above the town of Canal Flats; Mount Sabine Guides with the Icefall Brook Lodge have developed a crag called Tivoli.
Last, but not least, of my examples is the long bolted 5.7 on the Takakkaw Falls Wall.
WATERFALL ICE IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA Back in the 1970's, the first ascent of Takakkaw Falls was big news (Yoho NP). Nearby, there are commonly climbed frozen waterfalls above the town of Field, BC. Above Highway 93, in Kootenay National Park are the famous pillars found on the Stanley Headwall. The ice flow draped gorge of Icefall Brook might be as good or better than anything else. However, using helicopters is necessary to get there in winter. GUIDE BOOKS The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, by Bill Corbet, 2009. This book has the most recent information for the standard routes for the biggest mountains in the Canadian Rockies. Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, by Sean M Dougherty, 1991. This book has the basics for the serious climber's tick list, including the most notable technical climbs on the biggest faces on the high peaks. The book does not have good maps but give the specific , so use the suggestions make a list of all the maps Dougherty suggests for your tick list, and then order the maps from Canada's Geologic Survey. There is always a Bow Valley Rock book out to guide one to the vast selection of sport routes in Alberta. The most current comprehensive climbing guide the Canadian Rockies is now old and out of print. For those who want information on peaks not found in the selected climbs book, try finding The Rocky Mountains of Canada North & The Rocky Mountains of Canada South, by William L Putnam & Robert Kruszyna, AAC & ACC, 1921 - 1985. A few good summits, not found in the Dougherty book, are described in the old guide. For example, Mount Saskatchewan, near the Columbia Icefield, or peaks north of Mount Robson, like Mount Ida. The American Alpine Club Library has multiple copies in Golden, Colorado. I'm pretty certain the Alpine Club of Canada has it in the libraries at either the Canmore Clubhouse or Lake Louise Mountaineering Center. Note that many of the Canadian Rockies peaks are located in Alberta, not British Columbia. If you cannot find a peak you are looking for, it may be located on the Alberta page. Sorry! I can't access the text below this note. Otherwise, I would delete the Mtn of BC text below and fix any mistakes on the highest peaks list. LinksThe Association of Canadian Mountain Guides generously shares mountain condition reports with us all. Highest Peaks of the Canadian RockiesEnglish units, instead of metric, makes a nicer cut for defining major peaks. There are 54 summits above 11,000 feet. British Columbia makes a good showing in the top ten:` The Mountain Ranges of British ColumbiaThe North American Cordillera attains maximum width in British Columbia. For nearly a century, the Canadian Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, and geographic scientists have divided British Columbia's copious mountains into three big ranges; the Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mountains ,and Coast Range. Each range has a characteristic geology that supports this overarching classification. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for BC's Canadian Rockies:
South Face/Schwartz Ledges Easy 5th AI2-3 Steep Snow X Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10000 feet, Grade III Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Robson
Southwest Face Easy 5th Steep Snow R Trad, Snow, Alpine, 8000 feet, Grade III Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
North Ridge 5.5 Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000 feet, Grade II Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
North Face 5.5 AI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000 feet, Grade II Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
Takakkaw Falls 5.7 PG13 Trad, 12 pitches, 1260 feet Yoho National Park : Takakkaw Falls Area
Emperor Ridge 5.7 AI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade V Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Robson
North Face/North ridge 5.7 WI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 25 pitches, 7500 feet, Grade V Columbia Icefields : Mount Columbia (3,747m)
Featured Route For BC's Canadian Rockies
 INTRODUCTIONJones and Grassmann traversed the Columbia Icefield to get to the face, a super wilderness adventure. The first 5,000 feet was accidentally climbed under a "thousand ton groaning monster" ice cliff where the north face glacier calves into the gullies below. On the upper North Face, the Chouinard Ice Hammer proved its superiority to the Pterodactyl. Jones thought the ice was at least 55 degrees, steeper than Athabasca's North Face: "Convenient to rest the forehead on the ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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