|Five and Dime Wall
This is a very fun little crack. There are a few wide jams on a good, steep section. This is one of the best climbs on the wall. Enjoy.
This is a short line that can easily be top roped. There is one bolt at the top. It can be done trad-style with a few cams or large nuts. Protection up to 3 inches will work at the widest part of the crack.
|By Tom Hanson|
Nov 9, 2006
Thank you for adding the needed history to these lines.
I met Chris at The Wood many years ago, just after he published Scenic Solitude. His guide included the west rim routes and just a handful of the lines on the east side, mainly The Falls Wall.
We met at the canyon to share info, as I was working on a comprehensive guide to the canyon. Chris was really cool.
He shared his knowledge with me, which I included in my guidebook.
I did not include any first ascent info in my guide for a couple of reasons, but mainly because I wanted to keep the size of the guide small enough to stay with a stapled binding.
I would really appreciate it if you could provide me with some more history if you have it. Some day I plan to update the guide and include the history as well.
I've been trying to contact the old Colorado Mountain Club crew, who did a lot of climbing there back in the seventies (Mosiman, Holonich, Crowley, etc.), but I've had no luck.
Ken Trout told me that he did the first free ascent of The Good, the Bad, and the Dirty, back in the seventies.
Are you still climbing? If so, perhaps we could link up at Castlewood sometime. I'd appreciate any history you could provide on the topropes, leads and boulder problems.
Are you still in contact with Mr Drysdale? I would like to hear from him as well.
Once again, thank you for the additions to this site!