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Penitente - Entrance Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abrazos y Chingazos S 
Alien In My Underpants S 
Apocketlips T 
Art of Suffering T,S 
BBC? S 
Boltergeist S 
Bucket Slave T,S 
Camino De La Sonia T,S 
Captain America S 
Cassandra S 
Color Blind S 
Color of Devotion S 
Colors Of Emotion S 
Dive Right In S 
Dos Hombres S 
Drill Seeker S,TR 
Dynosaur S 
Forbidden Fruits S 
French Lesson S 
Glutton for Punishment S 
Hand Jam Crack T 
Hareless T 
Illegal Alien S 
Iron Cross S 
Laura T 
Loony Toons S 
Lovesnake S 
Mark's Crack T 
May-B-Nueve S 
Mission in the Rain S 
Mission in the Snow S 
Morning Glory S 
Mr. Breeze S 
Mr. Wind S 
Mysterious Redhead S 
Nature Of The Beast, The S 
No Regret S 
OPS S 
Persephone S 
Prick Pocket S 
Que Pasa S 
Queso Cabeza S 
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 
Rocket Man S 
Sangrador, The T,S 
Serpent, The S 
Sitting in Limbo S 
Stemoroids S 
Tangerine Dream T,S 
That's the Way S 
To Err Is Human T 
Twist of Fate S 
Twist of Feet S 
Wages of Sin T,S 
What The Hey S 
When the Whip Comes Down S 
Whipping Post S 
Yah-Ta-Hei S 
Unsorted Routes:

BBC? 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pon/Glitch
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

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Description 

Bob's guide lists three routes (BBC, Stray Cats, and the Separator) in a side canyon past the picnic pavilion, but after lots of fun hiking and scrambling, I could only find one. I'm assuming it's BBC, but who knows.

Stick clip the first bolt, and probably the second too, if you're smart. Climb up a crack to some huecos, where you will be scared, if you didn't stick clip #2. It's a tough clip from sketch rock. Gaining the prow is probably the crux, then there are some super-nice huecos for about three moves to the top. I jumped off from here and lowered off the last bolt.

Location 

Start from the big picnic pavilion that the BLM built with our camping fees (thanks a lot), walk out the back of it into a side canyon South of the main Penitente canyon. After about 100 yards, you will see a fin of rock sticking out over a pedestal, this is the route.

Protection 

3 bolts. Some peder-ass stole the anchor bolts off the top.


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