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Bayamon 2, PR - Bolts question
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By Ben Dubs
Dec 4, 2013
Elephant man

Hello! My girlfriend and I are planning out a trip to climb at Bayamon for 5 or so days in late Jan. We'd like this trip to be more of a redpoint trip than volume and curious if anyone can tell us the integrity of the bolts at bayamons sectors. Should we tread lightly on the "x" year old bolts in the humid enviroment or can we whip! Any additional information is welcome. Thanks!!!


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By Angel Mangual
Dec 4, 2013

In Bayamon, there is plenty of good climbs with great rock quality. I have been going there every December for the past two years, and I must say that some,not all, bolts look pretty sketchy, but I have taken whippers on it. There is a decent group of climber in the area that I know maintain the routes as much as they can. I do recommend the area and the locals are friendly and willing to show you the routes. Enjoy!!

If you want to find more info there is a climbing store in Puerto Rico call Aventura Tierra Adentro and it has some information about the climbings and the areas. here is the webpage for their mini guidebook aventuraspr.com/?page_id=81


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By Ben Dubs
Dec 4, 2013
Elephant man

Cool. Thank you for your info! We're planning on stopping at Aventura Tierra Adentro when we are down there to support their store. We'll scope out which routes look fun and safe before we give it hell.


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By jhammer03
From Manassas
Dec 5, 2013
Checking the beta on Dogleg

We were just climbing out there last December and everything we got on looked and felt solid - bolt wise.

Some of the thinner sections of limestone are just that, thin. They will break if you pull hard enough. So, careful what you crimp on. My buddy broke a crimp just as he finished clipping the first bolt on a route. It would have been a pretty gnarly landing, but I managed to get enough slack out to keep him off the rocks.

Mind/avoid any routes that have a red/pink tag on the first bolt. We found that they were hung on a couple of routes that had some horrifically large bees nests that were almost completely hidden/camouflaged.

Take A LOT of water. You will sweat.

Have an awesome time!


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By Ben Dubs
Dec 5, 2013
Elephant man

Woah! Epic tips right there!!! We're still trying to find a guidebook for the place... Looks like the bayamon guidebook was removed as they are updating it. Hopefully the new book is ready by Jan :(


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By jedeye
Dec 8, 2013

Just climbed a bunch of easier routes at Bayamon 2 a few weeks ago, and some bolts and anchors are starting to show their age. Tropical island air = rust. It's hard to tell how deep the corrosion goes, but climb prudently.

The harder routes might have newer, better hardware.

There should be some re-bolting efforts in January, around the island.

You'll probably find plenty to have fun on at Bayamon 2, but if not, Bayamon 1 is super close, and has a more open, exposed feeling. Plus it faces the E, where rain comes from, so you can keep an eye out. We're in the midst of some squalls right now, like the rest of the country. It's just waaaay warmer.

Enjoy!


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By Ben Dubs
Dec 9, 2013
Elephant man

Thanks Jedeye! We'll certainly tread lightly as it sounds from other responses that some (most?) of the bolts do need to be replaced, which is a shame but understandable. I have really ever come across a rusted bolt maybe only once. I would hate to misjudge a routes integrity and be stuck 4+ bolts up clipped into a devious looking piece of metal.

So my next hope and question is are these visible from the ground? If the first bolt (first few) appears rusted can the rest be assumed to be in the same shape? Or do instances happens where the first few bolts appear fine and suddenly you're up 40ft on suspect metal? And vice versa? Any experienced insight is welcome!!


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By jedeye
Dec 10, 2013

Ben,
I'd say most of the bolts are fine.
It didn't seem to be too predictable what the upper bolts would be like based on the lower bolts. Exposure to water is probably a big factor, and on rock as featured as this, wet spots can be anywhere.
On the flip side, a shiny new first bolt or two is a good indication of 'redpoint ready'.
What Aventuras might help you with is an 'age-coded' route list. That would also be valuable info for those wanting to re-bolt the old stuff...


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By Ben Dubs
Dec 10, 2013
Elephant man

Very helpful Jed and thank you for your responses! We will for sure stop, chat and buy at the local climbing shop when we arrive. Just want to know what we're getting into :)


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By Dan Kaschel
From Irving, Texas
Dec 29, 2013

Ben Weigner wrote:
Woah! Epic tips right there!!! We're still trying to find a guidebook for the place... Looks like the bayamon guidebook was removed as they are updating it. Hopefully the new book is ready by Jan :(


sdrv.ms/1hOkpjx

This is the Bayamon guide (the old one) if you still need it.


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By AlexGo
Jan 10, 2014

Hello.
I will be in Puerto Rico in January as well and may spend there a month or two.
I wanted to know, can any of the Bayamon routes be set up as top rope as well or all sports climbs?
I may be there by myself only, so any good (and safe) bouldering in that area as well?

Thanks.


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By jedeye
Jan 11, 2014

It's 99% sport. Not toprope. You can boulder around the base of the crags, or there's a bouldering area down a trail to the right at the last switchback of the road, before it straightens up to the observation tower.


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By Ben Dubs
Jan 26, 2014
Elephant man

For what it's worth. Our trip to Puerto Rico to climb was 100% amazing. Edda and Rossano (local legends and climbing shop owners) are the greatest people. We climbed with them for one day at Cerras las tetas, did one day at Bayamon and the rest of the time at Caliche.

Bayamons bolts are really looking iffy but it appears the rebolting is about to commence. Ground Zero (sector 0) is already complete.

Caliche was recently rebolted/maintenanced and is an out of this world crag. Solid rock quality and bomber hanger/bolts. Amazing limestone!!! Some of the bolts are the size of my thumb! One hour from San Juan and you are AT the rock.

We will certainly be back to PR and I recommend the climbing destination to everyone.

Also want to add I have Sprint for my android phone and I had coverage 99% of the time and navigation worked flawlessly.


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By AlexGo
Feb 2, 2014

Thanks Ben for allowing me to climb with you guys. Especially the climbing at Caliche was a blast.
Let me know if you guys make it back to Puerto Rico, I will stil be there until end of February. After that it might get to hot and humid anyway!?


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By jedeye
Feb 3, 2014

Glad more peeps are finding out how fun PR climbing is.

I'm not sure about camping at Bayamon 2, but the San Miguel Plaza hotel is very close, and is very functional. Food options around there are a grocery store in the nearby mall and neighborhood markets near the mall. Bayamon 1 is directly behind/above the mall.

For a fun guesthouse in a beachside residential area near the San Juan airport, look up Dreamcatcher. Ask Stephan where the pull-up bar is if you can't find it.


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