Start behind a tree, ascending on good edges to the first bolt. Trend a bit left to the second bolt, and then enter a vertical to slightly-overhanging bit with tricky-to-find holds (there are pockets and edges; some easier to use than others).
After clipping the third bolt the angle eases a bit, but slopey holds make getting onto the lower-angled rock exciting.
Finally, after the lower-angled rock is a short, vertical bit that requires a bit of body positioning trickery to gain the anchors.
On the right side of the wall, near the corner and behind a tree. The right of the three bolted routes.
5 bolts, hangers-and-chains anchors.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Sep 24, 2008
I agree that this is the best route on the wall. Really fun climbing. Cool undercling right below the chains. Great rock.
|By Nich Cloward|
From: American Fork
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Very fun climb. I found a very dusty hold up high and tried to dust it off, but lost my holds and took a little fall. Fun and a great view up canyon at the top. The funnest on the wall.
|By Jon Bitter|
From: Waco, Tx
Nov 8, 2009
very cold in fall. The temperature drops about ten degrees in this area because it never sees sun. There is also a constant breeze hitting it. I felt like a climbing popsicle, and it was 65 degrees outside!
|By Canyon Copa|
Jun 28, 2012
Well protected, but watch the fall into the tree. Crux is getting from the 2nd to 3rd bolts. Slopey holds with a couple deep finger pockets and some not so obvious feet. Getting up to the chains is also a little more difficult than you'd like at the end of a route but there is a bolt two feet under the chains for comfort.
|By Tim Moore|
Apr 15, 2014
If you start to the left and stay left the entire time on all the sloppers you can make the rout significantly harder. Probably a .10a or so.