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Bavaria climbing beta?
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Jun 18, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
So me & whole clan are headed to Germany for a two week family vacation at the end of this month. We'll be staying in Benediktbeuern which is about 45 min. south of Munich. We will mainly be hiking but if there was any sport climbing or bouldering close buy I sure would love to check it out and maybe get a day of climbing in. I've looked at the MP database and there appears to be some small crags in the vicinity with not much info.

Any MP'ers have some advice for me? Is it worth bringing shoes, harness & belay device and try to find a partner for a day of climbing? Or should I not even bother and focus on the important local activities like drinking some awesome beer??

Oh, and any suggestions for "don't miss" local attractions to check out would also be appreciated!! Thanks in advance for any help.
Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 18, 2014
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The place to go from Benediktbeuern is Kochel. It is the best hard sportclimbing around that area. The locations are stellar, the climbing is on immaculate limestone. Make sure to hit up a biergarten afterwards. Enjoy

On a side note, you could also do some sweet alpine climbing. Go to the Benediktenwand (that´s where the Tutzinger hütte is) and check that out. Just that is already a lovely hike. I Love that area. This one is a great alpine sportclimb in the easy 5.11 range. dav-tutzinger-huette.de/files/...
This route would be the king line on the Benediktenwand. Not fully bolted, about mid-eleven climbing, kinda like the dolomites. alpinrouten.de/files/routen/z_...

Have fun and don´t get cought driving too slow on the Autobahn!
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
189 points
Jun 18, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Thank you for the info Moritz,
you say Kochel has hard sport - I'd be looking to do .10's and .11's, anything that easy? Also, would I have a chance at finding a partner if I just showed up there?
Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 18, 2014
Profile Pic
Kochel doesn´t have any easy sport climbing. You also can´t just show up without a partner. You should go to Konstein for that. You should post on the board of the German Alpine club to find a partner.
davplus.de/schwarzes-brett/kle...
Let google translate it for you if you can´t read the site. I think you could write in English though. You should def. plan ahead to find a partner.
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
189 points
Jun 18, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Great, I appreciate it. My german is rusty, but I should be able to manage. I'll check it out. Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 18, 2014
donald
There is an insane amount of limestone throughout the region. but I found it hard to find English beta. The standard response (given my limited language) seemed to be: "get a guide". Which I did not.

From the sounds of your situation, I would highly recommend spending a day at Konigssee. It was my favorite place in the region.
Catch a boat in Schonau. It can get crowded at the launch, so get there early. From there you cruise a pristine lake (seems like a fjord) to St. Bartholoma, an impressive Baroque church in an unbelievable setting. If you're up for some adventure, you can climb the Watzmann from here.
For a more mellow experience, you can port around the lake (reserve ahead) and take day-hikes. This is a great way to escape the crowds, as the boat is the only way to reach the trail-head.

Even if you don't climb, you gotta go to this place.
jeff walz
From CO
Joined Jan 27, 2006
34 points
Jun 18, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Thanks Jeff! I will most certainly check into that area. My folks are in their 80's so boat rides vs. walking is always good! Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 18, 2014
The nearest local crag to Benediktbeuern is Bad Heilbrunn, you´ll find a topo online for this one. It´s sandstone slabs and granite and really popular as it´s almost all in the 5.8-5.11 region. Easy to set up a rope for rope soloing but there´s usually someone there anyway. Bit of a numpty´s paradise but there you go!
Despite what´s posted above I thought Kochel was the pits and I´ve lived here for over 20years and visited virtually everything in Bavaria. Possibly I´m not strong enough though!
The train up the Zugspitze (Germany´s highest mountain) and the cable car down is cool.
Jim Titt
From Germany
Joined Nov 10, 2009
185 points
Jun 18, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Thanks Jim, sounds like it may be worth going there just so I can get some kind of climbing in. I've got a week and a half to decide if I want to lug my shoes & harness across the pond, so keep the beta coming! Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 18, 2014
These limestone climbing areas are about 1h away and you'll drive through Garmisch to get there:

Nassereith - Sparchet:
climbers-paradise.com/klettern...

Leutasch - Chinesische Mauer:
climbers-paradise.com/klettern...
GroeWaZ
From Boulder/Salzburg/Munich
Joined Aug 12, 2013
5 points
Jun 18, 2014
Profile Pic
I really can´t recommend Heilbrunn. It is always super crowded and every hour is amateur hour.
Königsee is indeed a gem. Really pretty.
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
189 points
Jun 21, 2014
Glenn Schuler wrote:
So me & whole clan are headed to Germany for a two week family vacation at the end of this month. We'll be staying in Benediktbeuern which is about 45 min. south of Munich. We will mainly be hiking but if there was any sport climbing or bouldering close buy I sure would love to check it out and maybe get a day of climbing in. I've looked at the MP database and there appears to be some small crags in the vicinity with not much info. Any MP'ers have some advice for me? Is it worth bringing shoes, harness & belay device and try to find a partner for a day of climbing? Or should I not even bother and focus on the important local activities like drinking some awesome beer?? Oh, and any suggestions for "don't miss" local attractions to check out would also be appreciated!! Thanks in advance for any help.


Hey Glenn,
as the others have stated, lots to climb south of where you are:
- Brauneck above Lenggries has some good sport climbing also which none mentioned and the other spots, Nasareith being one of the better ones but a little further you have much more near Imst, Auistria.
Leutasch is superb but doesn't have much many easy routes and gets a lot of sun too…
Let me know if you need more help
Francis
Francis Kelsey
Joined Mar 11, 2010
31 points
Jun 22, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
Francis, I appreciate the info! We will definitely be going over to Brauneck & Lenggries. I lived there when I was a little kid and my dad was stationed there in the Army.
From one of your other posts it sounds like you live in the area? If there is any chance you would want to get out & climb for a day that would be awesome! I've been climbing 30+ years and am very safe. I would be more than happy to return the favor if you ever were traveling through Colorado. Thanks again,

Glenn
Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points
Jun 23, 2014
Hi Glenn,
No worries, yes I'm just south of Munich. Give me a shout when you're available to climb and we can try and set something up.
email me at francis(at)nosiesta(dot)net
Francis Kelsey
Joined Mar 11, 2010
31 points
Jun 25, 2014
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA...
email sent Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Joined Jun 24, 2006
975 points


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