Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Eiichi Fukushima and Larry Campbell, 1950s
Page Views: 3,621 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: The first pitch follows the arete forming the "prow" of the ship for almost a full rope-length. Easy climbing (5.6) past a surprising amount of fixed protection (see comments) leads to the base of a pillar where someone has tied off slings for a potential (double-rope) rappel. Belay from here or continue up and left through the first 5.8 section of the climb (layback to mantle) to a spacious belay ledge above.

P2: The shorter (and more enjoyable) second pitch continues directly up and slightly left from the belay ledge on the left side of the prow. Aim for the "tunnel" at the top of the cliff, going through two 5.8 corners along the way. You can supposedly finish through the tunnel (if you are very small), or continue up and over for an exciting finish (the most exposed move on the whole route).

Location Suggest change

Approach the route by following a distinct trail (just to the left of the restrooms at the base) around to the left side of the cliff. You can start climbing here, but better to just fourth class it up to a ledge that traverses back around to the right side of the arete. P1 description starts here.

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad rack (set of nuts and cams up to 3.5") plus extra draws (preferably long ones to reduce rope drag) should do the trick.

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