Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Richard Wright, 1997 FFA: Alan Nelson, 1997 |
Page Views: | 2,689 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Apr 15, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: 2016 Raptor Closures
Details
Raptor Closures for 2016:
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the
active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites in 2016,
the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Previous:
Beginning February 15, 2015, Jeffco Open Space will implement a climbing closure in Clear Creek Canyon Park. Four crags and 12 routes used for climbing in Clear Creek Canyon Park will be closed for the protection of nesting golden eagles. This seasonal closure through July 31, 2015 will ensure compliance with the Federal Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act.
To minimize disturbance to golden eagles, the following areas will be closed: Stumbling Block, Bumbling Stock, and Skinny Legs/Blonde Formation. These crags are all within one-quarter mile and within sight of a nesting area that has a bolted climbing route directly below it. These areas are located west of tunnel one in Clear Creek Canyon.
Jeffco Open Space raptor monitoring volunteers, natural resources staff and park rangers will monitor this site and enforce the closure. If the pair of eagles does not show signs of nesting in the identified areas by May 15, 2015, the seasonal closure will be lifted so that climbing can take place in this area.
Violations of this closure may result in a fine of $100,000, imprisonment, or both. For more information on The Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act (16 U.S.C. 668-668c), enacted in 1940 visit: fws.gov/midwest/midwestbird…
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the
active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites in 2016,
the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Previous:
Beginning February 15, 2015, Jeffco Open Space will implement a climbing closure in Clear Creek Canyon Park. Four crags and 12 routes used for climbing in Clear Creek Canyon Park will be closed for the protection of nesting golden eagles. This seasonal closure through July 31, 2015 will ensure compliance with the Federal Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act.
To minimize disturbance to golden eagles, the following areas will be closed: Stumbling Block, Bumbling Stock, and Skinny Legs/Blonde Formation. These crags are all within one-quarter mile and within sight of a nesting area that has a bolted climbing route directly below it. These areas are located west of tunnel one in Clear Creek Canyon.
Jeffco Open Space raptor monitoring volunteers, natural resources staff and park rangers will monitor this site and enforce the closure. If the pair of eagles does not show signs of nesting in the identified areas by May 15, 2015, the seasonal closure will be lifted so that climbing can take place in this area.
Violations of this closure may result in a fine of $100,000, imprisonment, or both. For more information on The Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act (16 U.S.C. 668-668c), enacted in 1940 visit: fws.gov/midwest/midwestbird…
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Description
Fortunately, Battle's End turned out to be a terrific route, equal to the best in Clear Creek Canyon. The stone is immaculate and the climbing relentlessly difficult and as varied as a route can get.
Like many routes, Battle's End has a personal story to it. I had worked closely with a colleague for 8 years and had watched him slip slowly into an irreversible state of depression. After years of therapy, drugs, and agony, Dale took his own life - the end of a long, frustrating battle. This climb was put in place for Dale as a small way for a climber to keep his story fresh.
The snowy November day I placed the bolts on Battle's End turned into one of the most terrifying days of my life. The top of The Stumbling Block contains a narrow, water channel that fills up with ice in the winter. I had gone up to the channel with a rope, descender, and slings for clipping the anchor. Seeing it full of ice should have turned me back, since I wore only light hiking shoes. Descending the ice filled channel, bridging against the ice on either side, must rank as one of the stupidest and most terrifying experiences I can recall. The channel slopes downward at 40 degrees and dumps out right over the climbs for an 80 ft ride.
The climbing on Battle's End begins with the first three clips of "Lips Against The Steel" for a 5.11c entre. Where Lips moves right to the trad crack above, Battle's End books left into the horizontal jams. Clip a bolt and cop a rest, it's all there is. Chase the seam above via six more clips. I would rate the moves 5.11c (in Lips), 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.12b with a bit of 5.11 as you approach the anchor. The end of this battle comes when you clip the anchor.
FFA went to Alan Nelson who blitzed the route in archetypal powerful, high efficiency style in the summer of 1997. Battle's End is easier than Anarchitect because it has no single move at 5.12d, but it has just as much continuity. Three stars for the superb quality stone, the powerful sequences, the cool moves, and the relentless continuity. It is worth mentioning that a positive ape index of about twelve feet would be useful.
Like many routes, Battle's End has a personal story to it. I had worked closely with a colleague for 8 years and had watched him slip slowly into an irreversible state of depression. After years of therapy, drugs, and agony, Dale took his own life - the end of a long, frustrating battle. This climb was put in place for Dale as a small way for a climber to keep his story fresh.
The snowy November day I placed the bolts on Battle's End turned into one of the most terrifying days of my life. The top of The Stumbling Block contains a narrow, water channel that fills up with ice in the winter. I had gone up to the channel with a rope, descender, and slings for clipping the anchor. Seeing it full of ice should have turned me back, since I wore only light hiking shoes. Descending the ice filled channel, bridging against the ice on either side, must rank as one of the stupidest and most terrifying experiences I can recall. The channel slopes downward at 40 degrees and dumps out right over the climbs for an 80 ft ride.
The climbing on Battle's End begins with the first three clips of "Lips Against The Steel" for a 5.11c entre. Where Lips moves right to the trad crack above, Battle's End books left into the horizontal jams. Clip a bolt and cop a rest, it's all there is. Chase the seam above via six more clips. I would rate the moves 5.11c (in Lips), 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.12b with a bit of 5.11 as you approach the anchor. The end of this battle comes when you clip the anchor.
FFA went to Alan Nelson who blitzed the route in archetypal powerful, high efficiency style in the summer of 1997. Battle's End is easier than Anarchitect because it has no single move at 5.12d, but it has just as much continuity. Three stars for the superb quality stone, the powerful sequences, the cool moves, and the relentless continuity. It is worth mentioning that a positive ape index of about twelve feet would be useful.
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