Crux is bulge halfway up. One toe jam step up into crack feel for crack on left side of crack way in the back.
far right side of lower terrace
all gear, all the time. Gear to 3.5" for anchor, but can get away with <1.5"
BETA PHOTO: a fun and worthwhile route
Battle of the bulge
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Nov 27, 2010
no gear for the first 30ft unless you uses some tri-cam. Super fun gets 4 or 5 stars in the supertopo giude.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2011
Second that. First 30 feet very thin on gear and hard enough any 5.8 leader should think twice if they have any doubts. Rest of climb is G and quality. Top rope was a little tricky but only 4th class to access the top of the route. 70m a must for TR.
Aug 6, 2012
Quality is excellent. Great hand jams half way up. Stiff crux.
We actually top roped it with a 60m rope. I guess it depends how high you put the gear anchor.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The start looks spooky from below but my leader managed to get lots of reasonable (though maybe not bomb-proof) cams in. The crux is simple using knees!
Jun 27, 2013
I found the first 20 ft actually protect quite well with Metolius TCUs. Agreed that 60m minimum is necessary for TR. Class 3 walk-off towards the left at the top.
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2014
I had no trouble placing gear first 30 feet. I do remember running out of cams for the route, getting real creative at the end.