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Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,675
Submitted By: rl23455 on Aug 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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BETA PHOTO: Battle of the Bulge. 5.8 route.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Crux is bulge halfway up. One toe jam step up into crack feel for crack on left side of crack way in the back.


far right side of lower terrace


all gear, all the time. Gear to 3.5" for anchor, but can get away with <1.5"

Photos of Battle of the Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
a fun and worthwhile route
BETA PHOTO: a fun and worthwhile route
Battle of the bulge
Battle of the bulge

Comments on Battle of the Bulge Add Comment
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By camtron
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Nov 27, 2010

no gear for the first 30ft unless you uses some tri-cam. Super fun gets 4 or 5 stars in the supertopo giude.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2011

Second that. First 30 feet very thin on gear and hard enough any 5.8 leader should think twice if they have any doubts. Rest of climb is G and quality. Top rope was a little tricky but only 4th class to access the top of the route. 70m a must for TR.
By hubix
Aug 6, 2012

Quality is excellent. Great hand jams half way up. Stiff crux.
We actually top roped it with a 60m rope. I guess it depends how high you put the gear anchor.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start looks spooky from below but my leader managed to get lots of reasonable (though maybe not bomb-proof) cams in. The crux is simple using knees!
By Vit
Jun 27, 2013

I found the first 20 ft actually protect quite well with Metolius TCUs. Agreed that 60m minimum is necessary for TR. Class 3 walk-off towards the left at the top.
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2014

I had no trouble placing gear first 30 feet. I do remember running out of cams for the route, getting real creative at the end.
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