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Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Battle of the Bulge Buttress 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.03837, -109.54917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 203,878
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
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Supercrack Buttress

Description 

This area is around the corner from Donnelly Canyon and generally faces the road (just over 4 miles past Newspaper Rock). It tends to be less crowded (just barely) than Supercrack Buttress since most climbs here are slightly more difficult.

Good climbs at this wall include its name sake, Big Baby, Crack Attack and many more. Nearly every climb at this wall is superb.


Getting There 

Parking can be had either at the major parking lot at the mouth of Donnelly Canyon or a few hundred feet further down the road on the opposite side of the cliff. If you are parking further down the road, there is a cairn that marks the beginning of one approach the takes you to roughly the center of the wall. The trail from the major lot puts you at the south (right as you face it) end of the wall.


37 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',11],['5.11',16],['5.12',5],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Battle of the Bulge Buttress:
Railroad Tracks   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 75'   
Pigs In Space   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Ruins Crack   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cave Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Our Piece of Real Estate   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Think Pink   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Hole in the Wall   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Crack Attack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   
Black Corner   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
3 Strikes You're Out   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Big Baby   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Battle of the Bulge   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Swedin-Ringle   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Quarter of a Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad   
Disco Machine Gun   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Digital Readout   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Christmas Tree   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Ruby's Cafe   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 70'   
Air Swedin   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Battle of the Bulge Buttress

Featured Route For Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Near the crux.  You can see three strikes your out in the corner.

Swedin-Ringle 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...
For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is im...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Battle of the Bulge Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with Supercrack in the bachground. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2001.
Battle of the Bulge Buttress in the afternoon with...
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