Batskins  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro Submitted By:  Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The truncated first pitch climbs an arch with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a). The full first pitch continues via technical stemming on knobs in a shallow groove, then moves left to an anchor (5 bolts; .12b).

The second pitch follows a bolted ramp past knobs to a tough balance move (.11d). 4 or 5 bolts; thin gear is needed to protect the balance move (nuts, 00-0 TCU's).

Location 

Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.

Protection 

Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.