||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro|
|Page Views: ||1,539|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008|
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Above the second pitch ramp on "batskins"...
The truncated first pitch climbs an arch with natural gear (some tricky placements) to a ledge with an anchor (.11a). The full first pitch continues via technical stemming on knobs in a shallow groove, then moves left to an anchor (5 bolts; .12b).
The second pitch follows a bolted ramp past knobs to a tough balance move (.11d). 4 or 5 bolts; thin gear is needed to protect the balance move (nuts, 00-0 TCU's).
Climbs the right facing arch to the left of Godzilla. A toprope variation climbs the face under the arch and joins the arch midway through.
Natural gear to 3 inches for the first part, especially small; Bolts (4 or 5) plus an anchor for the second part.
Max Hasson photo from rcnw.net Photo depicts, wha...
Walking the thin ramp at the beginning of the seco...
May 3, 2014
P2 is an seldom-done classic. It can easily be reached without leading P1 by rapping 10m diagonally left from atop Godzilla.
2 bolts protect the first balance crux, stemming off knobs. The topo in SVR shows 3 bolts in this section, and the existing 2 bolts seem a little oddly-placed for freeclimbing. The upper crux protects great with small cams or wires, as well as a 3rd bolt which is clipped just after the crux. This is also new hardware, but it replaced an old bolt drilled as an aid piece. I thought the location also made sense for free climbing, with modern tiny cams protecting the moves a little lower. This pitch ends at a belay directly above the P1 anchors on J. Gardens.