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 ADVANCED
South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
B-52 T 
Bat's Ass T 
Bloody Crack T 
Catch Me Now I'm Falling T 
Chaos Out of Control T 
Dinkus Dog T 
Fat Dog T 
First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Lichen or Not T 
Mettle Detector T,S 
name unknown (Bamboozled) T 
Parachute Woman T 
Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
Second Coming T 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
Slug, The T 
Unfinished Concerto T 
Windwalker T 
Zodiac T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bat's Ass 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Joe Bryson, Mike McCormick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,561
Submitted By: joe bryson on Oct 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BP. above the crux on 1st pt Bat's Ass.

Description 

Name comes from a Bat encounter on the First Ascent.
Pitch 1-Clip bolt for crux. Thin crisp edges lead to lower angle terrain. Trend up and right to 2 bolt anchor. 80ft. 5.10+
Pitch 2- Climb straight up into minor right facing corner. Great climbing and great gear lead to a 2 bolt anchor. 90ft. 5.9.
Rap with one rope.


Location 

On the wall between "Rat's Ass" and "Unfinished". More specifically between the routes "Integration By Parts" and "Child Prodigy"

Protection 

Gear to #1 camalot. extra TCU's


Photos of Bat's Ass Slideshow Add Photo
BP. on easy ground near 1st belay.
BP. on easy ground near 1st belay.
Following pitch 2 on a nice fall day!
Following pitch 2 on a nice fall day!

Comments on Bat's Ass Add Comment
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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Gear was thin and questionable above the horizontal above the bolt in my opinion. P1 is good face climbing for a bit then eases up considerably. P2 is some of the best 5.9 slab at the glass with bomber gear! Nice work on putting it up.

For just a 5.9 feel, i think climbing P1 of Windwalker into P2 of Bats ass would be a great linkup.

In retrospect i'm unsure if we started in the correct place. Clipped the first low bolt left of the left facing mini corner that is left of windwalker.
By joe bryson
Oct 10, 2011

It sounds like you were right on. After doing the hard moves at the bolt a long horizonal is reached with good gear. Another steep pull gets you standing onto the horizonal. There is a good blue TCU in an eyebrow at chest level and a #00 TCU at eye level. A really cool hand traverse on positive hand holds/thin feet leads to a stance with bomber medium stoppers in a vertical crack. Above there are a couple of shallow TCUs to anchor.
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

we got in a good grey and a shitty red C3. Guess the blue tcu was better than the red c3, cause the c3 was crappy.