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Rincon - L of Center Route
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Bat's Ass Dihedral 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 888
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the left side of the upper tier of Rincon Wall, and is a great finish after Rincon, but it is slightly harder.

The route is reached by walking to the top or completing one of the lower routes. It's only 1 pitch, but it is a great pitch. Be careful to move right below the flake and then back left under the roof, or prepare for a serious "Bat's Ass Kicking." Done direct the route felt like 5.12, and I hung on it several times before my partner pointed out my error (going direct).


Protection 

The route can be protected on a standard rack. The second crux is a little ways from good gear, but is only 5.10a/b. Maybe the route does not deserve the PG rating, but I err on the side of caution.



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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

Great finish to any of the lower pitches. Nice face move crux with good gear.

By Stan Lanzano
Feb 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Since there's only one other comment on this excellent route, I'll add my two cents. A steep jug haul leads to a pumpy undercling sequence around and over a bulge to thank God jugs. The undercling feels insecure--where the hell do you put your feet?! Crazy to think that Derek H. free-soloed it! Pulling left around the roof is pretty exciting. No need for the R rating; good gear where you need it. Nice setting, too.

By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jun 17, 2008

Hmm. My partner told me to go right and then back left also, but I wasn't feelin' it. After coming off a few times, I git an undercling, smedged my up as high as I could got the right hand over the roof and just hucked for it!! Pretty exciting li'l all point dyno to get the Jugs!