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Batman Pinnacle
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Batman and Robin T 
Batmobile T 
Within Reach T 

Batman and Robin 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 19,599
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Route in three pitches, with 2 rap descent (summit...

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Description 

This is a great moderate climb to an exciting summit. It is the first lead for many Lumpy climbers. Hike up past Checkerboard Rock, and find the Batman Pinnacle (visible from the parking lot), which caps a long slab leading up to the SW side of Batman Rock; steeper rocks lie adjacent on the left. Hike up talus to the base of the slab.

P1 - climb easy, well-featured rock, aiming for a platform right of a gully but left of a left-leaning, right-facing ramp, 120'.

P2 - step right, into the 5.4 ramp; belay at its top, or combine with the next pitch (180'). Variation: climb the steep slab and seam directly above the belay to meet the ramp (5.8 R).

P3 - climb the left (5.6) or right (5.7) of two good cracks, and belay above a short chimney.

P4 - surmount a steep, short corner above the belay, and climb huge, tilted ledges up and right to the summit (5.4), 75'.

Descent: rappel (50m rope) to the east from a fixed anchor, then scramble very carefully further east and survey for a spot to begin heading back right to the base. One can also do a couple more rappels from trees down the gully directly east of the climb (somewhat annoying and NOT recommended).

Protection 

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot.


Photos of Batman and Robin Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of the pinnacle and the route from bottom to top.
Another view of the pinnacle and the route from bo...
Batman Pinnacle fron the SW.
BETA PHOTO: Batman Pinnacle fron the SW.
Theo Barker's celebration 18 years of marital bliss with a climb on Batman & Robin.  That's a rock solid marriage!
Theo Barker's celebration 18 years of marital blis...
Theo Barker advances up the rock on a very cool anniversary climb.
Theo Barker advances up the rock on a very cool an...
Deb leading P1...blue bird day in January!
Deb leading P1...blue bird day in January!
Simon Thompson checking the views out from the top of the Batman Pinnacle.  Cragging at its finest at Lumpy.
Simon Thompson checking the views out from the top...
Wayne on the best part....  If you belay from where this photo was taken, the whole climb goes smoothly as two pitches....
Wayne on the best part.... If you belay from wher...
A man on the summit preparing to...rap?
A man on the summit preparing to...rap?
Erik Marr working up the 2nd pitch of Batman and Robin.
Erik Marr working up the 2nd pitch of Batman and R...
Lightning Bolt, Bat Flake, and Batman Pinnacle.
BETA PHOTO: Lightning Bolt, Bat Flake, and Batman Pinnacle.
Erik Marr rapping off the anchors on top of the Batman Pinnacle.  A little downclimbing and one more rap gets you to the ground.
Erik Marr rapping off the anchors on top of the Ba...
Mark calmly heads up Batman Pinacle while his belayer watches the lightning across the valley.  Common weather condition, same thing happened 2 weeks later with a different partner.  In both cases, we got little or no rain.
Mark calmly heads up Batman Pinacle while his bela...
The start of B & R.  Destination is the top of the pinnacle up there.
The start of B & R. Destination is the top of the...
Looking down at the second pitch, after setting up a belay at the base of the pinnacle.
Looking down at the second pitch, after setting up...

Comments on Batman and Robin Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2014
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jun 25, 2001

It is possible to do this climb in 2 pitches with a 60m rope. At the ledge at the end of the 1st pitch, head up to the left in a wide crack. The second pitch face climbs up and right to join the 3rd pitch. A direct line up the summit block must be taken to make it. This variation is useful when you are behind a slower party.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 14, 2002

Descent: The gully is no fun. After rapping from the top, there are two trees in the gully with slings and metal rings to rappel from. It's possible to downclimb most of the gully except for the final 20 ft., which was way too hard for me to downclimb. I would just suggest making the first rappel from the top and then walking farther east before heading down. Mike.
By Errett Allen
Jun 11, 2002

Good descent, if you haven't left anything at the base, is to do the short rap off the summit (or downclimb north or west if you soloed), then third class up either side of Batman Rock and take the approach trail down. Third classing around the east side of Batman involves a short fifth class boulder problem -- gullies on the west side are easier -- don't take the gully closest to Batman but one to the left.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 28, 2002

Get there early, at 8 am we were 5th in line. I'm thinking date climb here. The start of P3, the crux slot, requires some thought, and a long reach helps, but my shorter partner had no problem. I recommend a short hike over to the east side of Batman Rock after this route/rappel to Hand Over Hand or Globs of Blobs for more 7ish stuff.
By Brian T. Wandzilak
Sep 3, 2002

This was my first ever trad lead and it was an experience. If you can climb 5.9/10 sport, you will have zero problems with this route. My buddy and I (both from Nebraska) gave it a try, and we more or less walked up it. A quick question though, from the belay ledge at the top of p4, we went around to the side of the pinnacle(left of it looking from the ground) and tried to summit from there, but we couldn't find the line. Do you go straight up from the belay or were we right and just not able to find our way? Thanks and enjoy everyone!
By Chris Fisher
Jun 19, 2003

A great finish to the climb is to rap or downclimb from the summit into the notch between Batman Pinnacle and Batman rock and finish to the top of Batman Rock via Summer Breeze. It is the very obvious finger crack that leads to the small pine. Then take the short hand crack to easier ground then on to the summit. No harder than 5.7-. I then take the descent route down to the base of Batman Rock and climb there before heading back to the backpacks. To get to the base of Batman Pinnacle pass under the east face of Batman Rock and follow a faint path on down.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 16, 2003

We found it very easy and natural to combine pitches 2 and 3.

The climb appears to still be very popular. We were first on the rock today, and there were four people at the base when we were starting the p2/3 combo, and another five or six had arrived by the time we finished.
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Gear Alert
I've climbed this route twice in the past 9 months...a great route! In fact, it was my first multi-pitch climb 5 years ago (climbed it with a guide). It was nice to go out and free it with my climbing buddies...it is kind of like coming full circle! Anyway, one of the bolts on top of the pinnacle (the one to the rappellers right), the nut holding the hanger on the bolt is a bit loose. I tightened it to the best of my ability with a leatherman last year, and it appeared loose again on 5/23. I hand tightened it, and thought everyone should be aware. Also, the chains up there aren't well equalized, all of your weight seems to be resting on that right-most bolt. Be careful on the downclimb in the gully!
By Alex Chiang
Jun 12, 2004

Cool route. We didn't summit, because we got sleeted on near the top and we just wanted off. Instead of going all the way to the summit and rapping off, we traversed around to the backside where there's an easy downclimb for about 10 feet which will allow you to descend via the west descent gully.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2004

Great climb but a bit of a huffer and puffer (and somewhat confusing) of an approach if that is the only route you intend on doing up there. We easily did the route in 3 pitches. Pitch one (somewhat run-out) to an obvious right facing dihedral and belayed just around the corner to keep an eye on second. Pitch two up to the standard ledge before final pitch. Tricky move for 5.4 to get out of there and up on to the top. The descent is not much fun down the east gully. Couple of rappel stations off trees which we didn't need (look left for an easier descent at the second tree belay), but still time consuming to get out of there.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 4, 2004

A better alternative to rappeling to the east or down climbing is simply to do the first rappel off of the summit (15m) and then walk/traverse west for 75 yards to a gully which can be descended (2nd class) to the ground and back to the base of the climb. Very easy with only the summit rappel required. Enjoy.
By Colin Coulson
Sep 12, 2005

One more comment on the DESCENT. It is possible to rap the 30' to the notch between the pinnacle and Batman Rock then scramble west briefly and then south down towards the base. Just as you reach the Batman Flake the angle increases and there is a rap station. Rap less than 80' to more slings around a horn. When pulling your ropes here, fling them aggressively to keep them clear of the chimney. The final rap from the horn is fairly short. All single rope rappels with a 50 meter. This will put you right back at the base with no obnoxious walk off. Enjoy.
By Andrew
From: Lakewood
Feb 27, 2006

Did this route yesterday, took up a buddy who had only been climbing one time previously. I think I started pitch one too far to the right and ended up standing about 15ft above my last piece of gear and some slabby moves before making it to a big natural anchor. After that it was pretty straight forward, you can easily combine pitch two and three (which seemed to make more sense than putting up a belay between the two). One more easy pitch takes you to the top where you can rap about 30ft, then make a couple of easy down climbs to the gully on the east which ended up putting us right back at the packs, I was amazed out how short the walk off was.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 23, 2007

Warning!!! "Big Loose Rock near Batman Pinnacle. There is a loose rock half the size of a refrigerator immediately below the first large tree (it was actually touching the tree before it came loose) at the top of the gully to the east of Batman Pinnacle. This is one of the suggested rappel routes down from the pinnacle and it just came loose. Until it is knocked loose, everybody should avoid rappeling over it or into the gully below it."

This was submitted as a feedback for the website annonymously but with an email address.

Addendum: apparently an accident occurred where a climber sustained an open leg fracture and required a rescue. There may be loose rock in the vicinity. BEWARE!
By JamesB
Sep 17, 2007

I climbed this route on Sept 16, and left my helmet on the summit! If you find it please call me at 303-507-1562. My name is James. Thanks!
By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Jan 21, 2009

Partner and I did this route in 2 pitches (using 60M rope). No issue with rope drag.
By tdavidock
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jul 8, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Climbed this on the 4th of July with my buddy Matt. Matt linked the first two pitches and I led what would be the third (loved the fun crack moves). We rapped off the back and down climbed to the trail (easy walk-off). Would definitely recommend doing this if you don't mind a pretty steep accent (Welcome to Lumpy).
By Miles H
Aug 3, 2009

More descent beta: Rap off the pinnacle to hit the ground between a large pine tree and Batman Rock. You are heading towards a dead tree near Batman Rock after the rap. You should see 1 or 2 cairns close by when you pull your rope. Follow the cairns to the left. Climb up a slot on the left towards Batman Rock. Continue left along the base of Batman Rock and now you can follow easier ground and cairns down and right back to the base of the climb.
By CalebSimpson
Aug 9, 2009

Last week on Thursday, August 6 I had to leave a rope rigged to a tree near the top of the gully to the left of Batman and Robin. If you find this rope, can you please contact me through the site? We were caught up there after dark and could not find out way down and had to use a full rope length to make it to the ground. I can pay you shipping to get it back to me.

I am also not sure if the rope is even good anymore as it got a lot of tree sap on it.

Anybody doing this route should be advised finding the descent route is very difficult. We couldn't find it and then night fell, we had to bail, leaving my fairly new rope :(
By goatboywonder
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did this route yesterday. The descent is not too hard (at least in the daylight!). Here is what we did, however it should be noted that we did not leave anything at the base.

Rap off the east side of the pinnacle. Keep rapping until you land on a ledge with two large pine trees. ~70 feet.

Coil the rope, put on your tennies, and keep heading east. There are several huge cairns to follow.

After about 100 yards you have to pull off a V0 boulder problem into a narrow slot. It is short and the landing is safe.

Keep following cairns. Eventually you pass under Batman rock and start heading down its approach trail.
By Tits McGee
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2009

On the descent, installed new "bomber" rap anchor in between tree rappels.... Look for the Fixed Log!
By Paul Szymanski
From: Park Ridge, Illinois
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The approach is not fun, but the route is great. It is a perfect route for someone who just started to lead multi-pitch routes. This is definitely a classic and 4 star route. Every pitch is fun and safe. The belay stations are bomber proof. You should be very careful during the rappels because of the loose rocks.
By Andy Novak
From: Golden, Co
Oct 3, 2010

As per the goatboywonder's advice, there is ONLY ONE RAP on the decent, off the top of the pinnacle. if you are rapping off tress or logs (?) you are SCREWING UP. Keep heading East along the base of Batman Rock then down an easy trail and you will arrive at your packs without the dangerous, chossy, and highly impactful gully descent that most people who don't know any better seem to be using these days.
By Tits McGee
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 5, 2010

Andy,
The only thing I left behind was a big log with rocks stacked around it - no tat or rings, just rapped straight off the log. I was joking when I said it was a "bomber anchor." Sorry if I missed the trail on my first time in the area - won't happen again, it was getting dark and starting to snow.
By Jeb Tilly
From: Boulder
May 12, 2011

If you're comfortable soloing, this is the highlight of one of the best long run/climb romps on the Ridge. You can start with an ascent of Rock One, walk from the top of it to the base of the Pin Route on Twin Owls, scoot up that, then down the Bowels, then head uphill to the ridge itself, and follow that til you can drop down into the gully where the Tree Route is. Climb that (5.5) and continue down to the trail beneath Checkboard which leads to the boulderfield approach to Batman and Robin. Summit the pinnacle, downclimb into the notch and climb Summer Breeze to the summit of Batman Rock and the walkoff. So fun.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 12, 2011

Just make sure that the route(s) are open for climbing. The penalty for climbing when they are closed is stiff.
By Ross Bickhart
Jul 13, 2011

I highly recommend NOT descending via the gully that is directly to the east (climber's right) of the Batman and Robin pinnacle. Instead, (after the rappel off of the pinnacle), follow the face farther east until you reach an extremely obvious walk off. You can walk down safely and hook back to the right (facing downhill) to grab your stuff. Just keep heading east along the face and you will definitely find the walk off. As someone mentioned, there is a bouldering move at one point as you work east, but it is a plenty safe distance from the cliff edge and is nothing to worry about.
By John Dubya
Jun 21, 2012

Great climb with really good gear and surprising exposure! Note: I assumed there would be fixed belay anchors and there are none...so be ready to build anchors (the ledges are good though). Also, the guidebook says 4 pitches, but we easily did it with 3; however, beware of rope drag...and someone has put a new blue sling in the gully on the before mentioned tree if you care to rappel all the way down, but please note that using a 70m rope just touched the ground from that tree.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2012

Why did you assume there would be fixed anchors? In general, that's never a good assumption unless you're climbing at a predominantly sport area or have concrete, reliable information that there are fixed anchors.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2012

I agree with Charles. I don't think I have ever come across fixed belay anchors in Lumpy.
By John Dubya
Jun 26, 2012

Granted I have little experience on Lumpy and usually assume on well traveled routes there will be fixed gear; HOWEVER, I am always prepared for there not to be. BTW, there are routes with fixed anchors on Lumpy example: Melvin's Wheel.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 26, 2012

FWIW, if you go to Lumpy expecting fixed anchors, you have a high probability of disappointment.
By John Dubya
Jun 26, 2012

Taken under advisement thanks...(perhaps I was hoping more than assuming).
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jul 6, 2012

No fixed anchor, but if you belay where I did, you can close your eyes and throw a hex toward the rock and chances are good you'll have a bomber anchor.
By Dave Bn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Was carrying a #4 C4 in the pack for another route we intended to do that day and ended up pulling it out for the top of the P1 belay. Seemed to fit in better than any other pieces and I wanted my one #3 with me for the next pitch.
By Mitch Musci
Aug 20, 2013

The 5.8 R seam at the top of P1 offers great climbing and is a good way to add some spice to this wonderful moderate.
By Mountain Matt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2014

If you lost a rope bag at the base of B&R yesterday 8/16/14, I've got it. Please PM me. Hope to get it back to you.
By Russ Keane
Sep 26, 2014

This climb is so boring for a so-called "classic". It just happens to be easy, user-friendly, and has good views from the top.

I've done it twice, and it felt so anti-climactic both times.
By semicolin1
Sep 28, 2014

We also did this route in 2 pitches with a 60m rope, standard rack, and no need for route variations. Newer leaders may not want to run the rope out like this if they don't control for drag, but it wasn't bad for me. Also did Summer Breeze in 1 pitch, again with 60m rope and standard rack. Nice 3-pitch day, worth doing despite claims that it's not classic.