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The Bates Arete is one of the best problems of its grade in The Bay Area. Starting low on the right side of the rock, and about 25 feet long, first traversing up a steep overhang complete with large jugs and slopers leaving the desire for a good rest.
The climb turns the corner from a good traverse into an uphill battle along a long solid arete where landings are bad. A final mantle, and the problem is yours.
Several Pads, active spotters, and some heuvos. There are a few spots in the problem that just don't protect all that well.
BETA PHOTO: The Bates Arete problem from below.
|By Bruce Morris|
From: Belmont, CA
Sep 16, 2006
Barry Bates did the FA. Not "Billy" Bates (whoever that is).
From: San Francisco
Oct 19, 2009
Not sure that I'd call this "R" rated. It does top out high from the ground, but you're never too high from something to land on (other large boulders and slabs). The crux is down low and protects with two pads safely. Climbing up the face is easy after completing the crux and once you hit the jug at the top of the route you're home free.