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Southwest Corner
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Airlie Gardens T 
Bat Shit Crazy T 
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 
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Lopper, The T 
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Vaporizer, The T 

Bat Shit Crazy 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg, Will Loftus, Amy Colburn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: amy colburn on Apr 15, 2013

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At the first belay, with Shannon starting up the l...

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


1. Climb the first pitch of Boulder Problem in the Sky and belay at the fixed anchor. (5.8)
2. Climb straight up from the belay and get a piece under the big block. Work up and right, laybacking the big flake, and reach back left to clip the bolt. Continue up the obvious weakness, right and then up to the roof. Traverse left just under the giant roof, with good gear, all the way to the end. Belay here in this spectacular position on a large horn with a fixed anchor. A double rope free rappel gets you back to the ground. (10+)


Start on the big ledge below the corner (See the approach description for Boulder Problem in the Sky). Double ropes required (to get down).


One bolt. Lots of small to medium sized pieces for the traverse.

Photos of Bat Shit Crazy Slideshow Add Photo
Starting out the traverse.
Starting out the traverse.
Looking across from part way through the roof at t...
BETA PHOTO: Looking across from part way through the roof at t...
Clipping the bolt from the layback.
Clipping the bolt from the layback.
This shows the cool position that you rappel from....
This shows the cool position that you rappel from....

Comments on Bat Shit Crazy Add Comment
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By amy colburn
Apr 15, 2013

FA was on 11/9/2012.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Apr 16, 2013

Nicely done.

Like the name.
By UncleBen
From: The Briar Patch
Apr 17, 2013

Nice.....another good rainy day route!
By Drew Dekle
May 24, 2013

Climbed it yesterday - I seconded - I figured that the crux would be the layback but that part was actually very fun and straightforward 5.10+ move. The traverse is good but it's sustained and the footwork is tricky and you should make real sure to put in a lot of gear - - it's there and your second will need / want it. The moves on the traverse are probably no harder than 9+ / 10a but it is so sustained, plan on it feeling like 10c for sure.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 2, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun addition to the area. I thought the difficult climbing was over after the bolt. It didn't feel as sustained as other 10+'s. Lots of great stances, hand holds, and gear. The exposure was really good too! I wish the anchor was better or at least in a better spot. The hanging belay off of tat and a few rusted pieces was not inspiring. It seems like very little attention was paid to good anchor setups on the entire area. I am all for a some SS cable to replace tat and some bolts with rings to replace the rusted ones without rings.
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