1. Climb the first pitch of Boulder Problem in the Sky and belay at the fixed anchor. (5.8)
2. Climb straight up from the belay and get a piece under the big block. Work up and right, laybacking the big flake, and reach back left to clip the bolt. Continue up the obvious weakness, right and then up to the roof. Traverse left just under the giant roof, with good gear, all the way to the end. Belay here in this spectacular position on a large horn with a fixed anchor. A double rope free rappel gets you back to the ground. (10+)
Start on the big ledge below the corner (See the approach description for Boulder Problem in the Sky). Double ropes required (to get down).
One bolt. Lots of small to medium sized pieces for the traverse.
Starting out the traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Looking across from part way through the roof at t...
Clipping the bolt from the layback.
This shows the cool position that you rappel from....
From: NE, GA
Apr 16, 2013
Like the name.
|By Br'er Rabbit|
From: The Deeper South
Apr 17, 2013
Nice.....another good rainy day route!
|By Drew Dekle|
May 24, 2013
Climbed it yesterday - I seconded - I figured that the crux would be the layback but that part was actually very fun and straightforward 5.10+ move. The traverse is good but it's sustained and the footwork is tricky and you should make real sure to put in a lot of gear - - it's there and your second will need / want it. The moves on the traverse are probably no harder than 9+ / 10a but it is so sustained, plan on it feeling like 10c for sure.