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Bat Cave Boulder
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Bat Cave 
Penumbra 

Bat Cave 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Ethan Peck, Benny, Chris Duca 2003
Season: Any, the cave behind blows cool air out on those warm days
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Read on Jul 5, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Bump?

Description 

Start on the lowest part of the foot wide shelf. Figure out where to put your right foot to get off the ground and work your way left using heel hook and through a careful hand match till you reach a pretty good left hand pinch. From her figure out some weird positioning and go for the notch at the lip. Slopey top out right.
( If you have the NE Bouldering guide i believe this lists as Army of Ants V2. V2 this is not unless there is something I'm majorly overlooking, or if you use the cheater block next to the start. I'm tossed up on what to give it for a grade so take it with a grain of salt. This is my best guess based on a few similarly graded routes I've done in the notch, combined with the little info I've been able to dig up. If you have better info like Name, grade, FA let me know. I just wanted to post it up since its rad.)

Location 

If you standing directly in front of Biscuit look up left you cannot miss it.

Protection 

pad or two and a spotter willing to bear hug if you blow the toss to the notch.


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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 5, 2012
rating: V4 6B

Ethan Peck, Benny and I FA'ed this problem back in 2003, I think (though it may have been done prior to us without being documented). I believe we called it "The Bat Cave" due to its proximity to the spooky little cave immediately to the left with bats living in it.
By Read
From: Townsend, MA
Jul 6, 2012

Thanks for the info Chris.How does the grade seem from what you remember just out of curiosity?
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 8, 2012
rating: V4 6B

Hey Read--

Though I haven't climbed it in several years, I do believe you are spot on with the grade. The arÍte immediately to the right that swings around to the far right is dubbed "the batwing", and I believe it was around V2/3.

-Chris
By Read
From: Townsend, MA
Jul 8, 2012

Cool. I'll have to give the batwing a whirl as well then. Thanks for the info. Also we should meet up and try to climb sometime since last time fell through I'd be stoked to find out some more info about the area and especially the roped climbing since i've had little luck finding partners other than to boulder.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2013

Unless I'm missing something beta wise, I find it difficult to call this anything easier than v5. In my opinion, stiff v5. The move to the lip is quite difficult for me. I can imagine that if you were taller or in possession of some wizard beta that it might feel easier. For me, it felt like the crux.

Cool little climb. Unfortunately a little squeezed. But, that's the Notch!