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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jan 16, 2013

Funny you should mention children, because I was just thinking of the children on the climbing team from Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque that were at Maple canyon, including the Pipedream, last summer.

What kind of message are we sending the next generation if we tell them these route development practices aren't acceptable in their home state, but are ok in Utah? Shocking that Utah is liberal on something, but it is true.

c roth wrote:
but if we act as a community we can have a significant impact, and maybe we can finally put an end to this chapter. It's up to the New Mexico climbing community to decide what they,(you)want. If you want a stop to this, then we need to band together and be proactive.


Cody Roth,

I propose that we don't promote taking children to areas known to be chipped, comfortized, glued, terraced or in any way manipulated.

I'm not too crazy about permadraws and excessive tickmarks either.

Just a Pure climbing experience for the next generation!

!Hallelujah!


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By thomas ellis
From abq
Jan 16, 2013
Mint jullop

You could give the kids a history lesson
"Just like disco, at one point people thought this was cool(some people)"


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By thomas ellis
From abq
Jan 16, 2013
Mint jullop

And David, that pretty much rules out most of NM climbing now that some anon tool has chipped holds at Roy


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By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Jan 16, 2013
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...

The Stoned Master wrote:
Dilemma for climbing(ers): we all want to climb at the same cliff but we have different opionions on what is accecptable regarding every subject.


10 f*#king GALLONS of glue, bolting coat hangers to the wall? How could that ever be considered a "grey area"? Sahalie and johny boy seem cool with it. Timy is never going to change, that seems obvious - maybe it's time for Glew Mexico to have an old fashioned tar & feathering party. You could use one of those fivers of glue instead of tar.


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By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 16, 2013

Cody,
Thanks for posting the photos. Way back when the Umound got glued up I tried the whole boycotting thing, sent emails to sponsors, and all that, but since it was just me, there was no real impact. It may work if enough people try it.
Is there any way to get the glue off the rock? I would personally de-glue the Gluemound as it is a local bouldering area with great rock in a very cool setting, but it is totally glued beyond recognition. Can the boulders and walls be restored to their previous condition and then be redeveloped?


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Jan 16, 2013

Attacking a mans livelihood should demand some proof and deserve some objectivity, don't you think?

Well there you go anonymous wank. Need anymore pics?

Defend that sweetie.

Jeremy


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By c roth
Jan 16, 2013

Eric,
I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund. If anyone else out there has any info on removing sika, your input would be appreciated.

@david, I think you're missing the point, and comparing apples with oranges. The gripe isn't the terrace, the gripe is it was done without permission, and with no forward thinking thought. I suspect the terraces at Maple were done with permission, and based on the photos you shared, they were installed with care and aesthetic. There's not a cluster of unused abandoned re-bar in those photos, nor is there a bunch of exposed unsightly chicken wire, re-bar, and trash. The terraces alone, wouldn't get me up in arms, but the terraces combined with the rest of the junk show, paint a pretty sad picture of infinite regression, and a poor representation of our sport.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 16, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

c roth wrote:
Eric, I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund. If anyone else out there has any info on removing sika, your input would be appreciated.



I would think if you dynamited the place it couldn't look any worse. Maybe some of the local miners could help.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 16, 2013
Stoked...

hammer and chisel = spitballs at a battleship?


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By Senior Hernandez
Jan 16, 2013
on the trip

c roth wrote:
Eric, I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund.



This would be awesome, not only would the Bat Crag, The Temple and Socorro get a facelift, but Uncle Tom can go fix his mess of his down in Socorro and "the crew" can go fix their mess at the cave.


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By Owen Summerscales
From Los Alamos, NM
Jan 16, 2013
Gerle creek at loon lake

Really shocked by the glue.. and the buckets left at the base?!

But is terracing so bad? Smith rocks has a bunch and I thought it was quite a responsible thing to do in order to avoid erosion.


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By southwesternclimber
Jan 16, 2013

Sounds pretty ugly. Sounds like a group of spoiled rich white boys who think they own the world. Maybe I can start by taking a hammer to some of this crew's previous development as they don't seem to care what anyone else thinks. Screaming Jihad would be alot harder without holds.


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jan 16, 2013

Owen Summerscales wrote:
Really shocked by the glue.. and the buckets left at the base?! But is terracing so bad? Smith rocks has a bunch and I thought it was quite a responsible thing to do in order to avoid erosion.



No, it was short-sighted and ego-driven, just like everything else. It doesn't have the aesthetics of wood (which would last about a year in the sun) and the developers didn't ask 'permission' (from who?)


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
whoa... those photos really are egregious. You could NEVER get away with that shit back here in the NE.


Actually, you can. And its happening all over NY state, especially at the Gunks. And Gunks rock is HARD to chip. I've seen BLANK roofs with 17 holds attempted to be chipped into them. Same shit, chisels and other gear found stashed, the accused is Timy's counterpart. What did one private land owner allowing it say? "One mans chipping is another man's cleaning". But its happening on the preserve.

Table Rock. I remember scoping this roof prior to the heinous chip fest that apparently ensued. Or wait, I mean cleaning. Just cleaning. Lol give me a f'in break you pu$$y chipper defenders. If it doesn't go, leave it be. Some of the moves were already done before the intermediates were chipped. Its pussies that chip. YOU F'IN PUSSIES. MAN UP. or leave it for the kids that are BURNING YOUR OLD OVER THE HILL A$$E$ OFF. They will do it.

Oh yeh. Here's the pix:
















Liable my a$$. When its the truth, there's nothing a lawyer can do.

Facts are facts. Stop chipping if you don't want to look like a pu$$y dumbass idiot.


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

Sh!t, i forgot the BEST ONE!


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By Senior Hernandez
Jan 16, 2013
on the trip

So this isn't just a NM problem? Dang, there goes the premise of the whole thread!


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By nick manning
From superior,az
Jan 16, 2013

i'm sure the miners would be happy to blow up the glue!


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Jan 16, 2013

slab,

Chipping isn't gluing, but in any case, welcome!

and nice one jumping right into the hatefest!


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

hating is my job. i've been paid to troll internet forums FOR YEARS.

this isn't hating tho, its just the truth. The shits happening. If its ok, and there's 2 sides to the story, then why do they hide it?


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By Williampenner
From The 505
Jan 16, 2013
Beaver Mountain

@Slab, I have lots of silver to sell you if you want to come out to NM for another visit.
You can crush the glue off the rock between Red Bulls. Also, I have a hat of yours from a previous trip.

@David S., what are you hoping to do here other than stir the 5-gallon glue pot?

W


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

Williampenner wrote:
@David S., what are you hoping to do here other than stir the 5-gallon glue pot? W



i think he has to carry someones crash pad...


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By Williampenner
From The 505
Jan 16, 2013
Beaver Mountain

slab wrote:
i think he has to carry someones crash pad...


D S seems like a used mattress type of fella rolling along with an old carpet swatch. Germ reservoirs both.


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

OMG! AND HEAVEN FORBID A RAG should report on this. Given its a real issue, with real consequences for the climbing community at large. Its like the newsroom in the rags, without the intelligence or wit.


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By twattishness
Jan 16, 2013

Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya

Now your under control

Fuck you, I wont do what you tell me


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By slab
Jan 16, 2013

epic onsight-11c wrote:
Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now your under control Fuck you, I wont do what you tell me

ok bro..., 1992 is deader than abercrombie. welcome to the future. create a new screen name.

next.


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