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By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 16, 2013
Cody,
Thanks for posting the photos. Way back when the Umound got glued up I tried the whole boycotting thing, sent emails to sponsors, and all that, but since it was just me, there was no real impact. It may work if enough people try it.
Is there any way to get the glue off the rock? I would personally de-glue the Gluemound as it is a local bouldering area with great rock in a very cool setting, but it is totally glued beyond recognition. Can the boulders and walls be restored to their previous condition and then be redeveloped?

FLAG
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Jan 16, 2013
Attacking a mans livelihood should demand some proof and deserve some objectivity, don't you think?

Well there you go anonymous wank. Need anymore pics?

Defend that sweetie.

Jeremy

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By c roth
Jan 16, 2013
Eric,
I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund. If anyone else out there has any info on removing sika, your input would be appreciated.

@david, I think you're missing the point, and comparing apples with oranges. The gripe isn't the terrace, the gripe is it was done without permission, and with no forward thinking thought. I suspect the terraces at Maple were done with permission, and based on the photos you shared, they were installed with care and aesthetic. There's not a cluster of unused abandoned re-bar in those photos, nor is there a bunch of exposed unsightly chicken wire, re-bar, and trash. The terraces alone, wouldn't get me up in arms, but the terraces combined with the rest of the junk show, paint a pretty sad picture of infinite regression, and a poor representation of our sport.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jan 16, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
c roth wrote:
Eric, I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund. If anyone else out there has any info on removing sika, your input would be appreciated.



I would think if you dynamited the place it couldn't look any worse. Maybe some of the local miners could help.

FLAG
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 16, 2013
Topo - Cliffs in Green
hammer and chisel = spitballs at a battleship?

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By Senior Hernandez
Jan 16, 2013
on the trip
c roth wrote:
Eric, I'm not sure if there's a way to remove sika, maybe this is something we need to discuss with NM CRAG and the Access Fund.



This would be awesome, not only would the Bat Crag, The Temple and Socorro get a facelift, but Uncle Tom can go fix his mess of his down in Socorro and "the crew" can go fix their mess at the cave.

FLAG
By Owen Summerscales
From Los Alamos, NM
Jan 16, 2013
Gerle creek at loon lake
Really shocked by the glue.. and the buckets left at the base?!

But is terracing so bad? Smith rocks has a bunch and I thought it was quite a responsible thing to do in order to avoid erosion.

FLAG
By southwesternclimber
Jan 16, 2013
Sounds pretty ugly. Sounds like a group of spoiled rich white boys who think they own the world. Maybe I can start by taking a hammer to some of this crew's previous development as they don't seem to care what anyone else thinks. Screaming Jihad would be alot harder without holds.

FLAG
 
By slab
Jan 16, 2013
CaptainMo wrote:
whoa... those photos really are egregious. You could NEVER get away with that shit back here in the NE.


Actually, you can. And its happening all over NY state, especially at the Gunks. And Gunks rock is HARD to chip. I've seen BLANK roofs with 17 holds attempted to be chipped into them. Same shit, chisels and other gear found stashed, the accused is Timy's counterpart. What did one private land owner allowing it say? "One mans chipping is another man's cleaning". But its happening on the preserve.

Table Rock. I remember scoping this roof prior to the heinous chip fest that apparently ensued. Or wait, I mean cleaning. Just cleaning. Lol give me a f'in break you pu$$y chipper defenders. If it doesn't go, leave it be. Some of the moves were already done before the intermediates were chipped. Its pussies that chip. YOU F'IN PUSSIES. MAN UP. or leave it for the kids that are BURNING YOUR OLD OVER THE HILL A$$E$ OFF. They will do it.

Oh yeh. Here's the pix:
















Liable my a$$. When its the truth, there's nothing a lawyer can do.

Facts are facts. Stop chipping if you don't want to look like a pu$$y dumbass idiot.

FLAG
By slab
Jan 16, 2013
Sh!t, i forgot the BEST ONE!


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By Senior Hernandez
Jan 16, 2013
on the trip
So this isn't just a NM problem? Dang, there goes the premise of the whole thread!

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By nick manning
From superior,az
Jan 16, 2013
i'm sure the miners would be happy to blow up the glue!

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By slab
Jan 16, 2013
hating is my job. i've been paid to troll internet forums FOR YEARS.

this isn't hating tho, its just the truth. The shits happening. If its ok, and there's 2 sides to the story, then why do they hide it?

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By Williampenner
From The 505
Jan 16, 2013
Beaver Mountain
@Slab, I have lots of silver to sell you if you want to come out to NM for another visit.
You can crush the glue off the rock between Red Bulls. Also, I have a hat of yours from a previous trip.

@David S., what are you hoping to do here other than stir the 5-gallon glue pot?

W

FLAG
By slab
Jan 16, 2013
Williampenner wrote:
@David S., what are you hoping to do here other than stir the 5-gallon glue pot? W



i think he has to carry someones crash pad...

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By Williampenner
From The 505
Jan 16, 2013
Beaver Mountain
slab wrote:
i think he has to carry someones crash pad...


D S seems like a used mattress type of fella rolling along with an old carpet swatch. Germ reservoirs both.

FLAG
 
By slab
Jan 16, 2013
OMG! AND HEAVEN FORBID A RAG should report on this. Given its a real issue, with real consequences for the climbing community at large. Its like the newsroom in the rags, without the intelligence or wit.

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By twattishness
Jan 16, 2013
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya
Now you do what they told ya

Now your under control

Fuck you, I wont do what you tell me

FLAG
By slab
Jan 16, 2013
epic onsight-11c wrote:
Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now you do what they told ya Now your under control Fuck you, I wont do what you tell me

ok bro..., 1992 is deader than abercrombie. welcome to the future. create a new screen name.

next.

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By slab
Jan 16, 2013
true question is, with all this overwhelming disgusting proof, why are there so many dooshbags coming out of the woodwork to defend these actions? losers.

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By southwesternclimber
Jan 16, 2013
I heard from a pretty good source old chisel fairfield was getting dumped by sponsors. The photos were just too ugly.

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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Jan 17, 2013
Toofast
Wow those photos were shocking. I am not a fan of glue to begin with but that stuff is just way over the top.

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By Dan Carter
From Las Cruces, NM
Jan 18, 2013
A previous post mentioned the Bat Cave was managed by the "FS" (Forest Service). The Caballo Mountains, in which the Bat Cave resides, are managed by the Bureau of Land Management.

The terraces do prevent erosion and make belaying safer but the exposed rebar is a dangerous hazard. The ones at Maple are much more appealing and safe. The glue and trash are completely ridiculous and have no place at a climbing location or anywhere for that matter.

If development is going to be done without permission from the BLM it should at least be discrete, safe and tasteful.

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By bking7
Jan 19, 2013
I think the pics give all the emphasis that that the initial statements somehow lacked. I agree that the terraces prevent erosion and perhaps make for a safer belay but they were done with the worst of taste, as for the rest, the empty buckets speak "gallons."
Very simply, ethics are not our own, not when they jeopardize the access of the whole community to the only 200ft cave in the state, not when, literal gallons of glue are dumped to full on create holds. There was talk that complaining of gluing could end up getting areas closed to us climbers, bulls**t. The act of gluing wilderness areas, BLM areas, has the very, very real possibility of closing those areas.
As stated above, what was done was short sighted and selfish, and such practices are in no way the act of a single individual. Very simply this current round of outrage is not simply aimed at a single individual, it is aimed at the idea that extreme, selfish, modification of rock is acceptable as long as you're strong. It directly targets the practice of ignoring the community's multiple messages against such practices in favor of your own "futuristic" view of climbing.
Whatever grey area there is, The Bat Cave is far far beyond it, and I'd truly hate for the next great crag to suffer a similar fate.

FLAG
 
By Marcy
From Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 20, 2013
the tornado
Efff that S&$#. Why can't we just leave the glue, chisles, and IPOD speakers at home an enjoy the natural beauty of the outdoors? Really, a hanger for speakers??? Not everything needs to be climbed. If the rock sucks, move on and look for something that doesn't. Freakin' stop beating the outdoors into submission.

FLAG


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