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A Classic! This route can be approached several ways: walking below the start of Stony Staircase, scrambling up directly from the highway, or climbing “35 Miles Per Hour.” It begins near a large dead tree on the ground in a shallow groove with a bush in it.
P1) Climb past a few bolts under the white right-facing, arching wall to the lone dead tree on a ledge.
P2) Go up the crack above, to a bolt then traverse right onto a ledge with a two bolt belay.
P3) The third pitch can be climbed three ways, depending on how hard you want to make it.
1) 5.8 A0. Climb up from the belay and traverse right to the bolts. Aid (French free) across the spinning hangers to gain the crack.
2) Walk right on the ledge to directly below the aid bolts. Free climb straight up past a bolt (5.11) to gain the crack.
3) Traverse right on the ledge, go up a ramp heading right past a pin, then undercling the flake (5.9+) back left to the crack.
Either way, ascend the ramp and head left to the arch and a gear belay.
P4) Traverse under the overhang hanging belay at a piton (back it up) at the far end of the overhang.
P5) Pull the roof and continue up the stellar vertical crack system to the trees.
Descend the Stony Staircase rappels (see Lightning Dome - Right Side)
Gear to 3"