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 ADVANCED
Rodent Ranch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.G Tumnus S 
Basted Pikas S 
Bitty Bee S 
Black Elk Speaks S 
Black Mouse Speaks S 
Blinded by the Light S 
Callalo S 
Fuzzy Navel S 
Girls do Pinchlingue S 
Happy Ending S 
Hummer S 
Mr. Jingles S 
Pika Angst S 
To Stand On S 
Unsorted Routes:
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Basted Pikas 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Brian Hestetune on Jul 29, 2012

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Description 

This is a really fun route. There seems to be three distinct crux-ish parts to this route. In order of difficulty the crux moves are: after the fifth bolt, the roof, and pulling above the third bolt. I found those to be the trickiest. Shorter people may find getting to the third bolt to be fairly hard.

This route features mostly pockets/crimps, sidepulls, and periodic jugs. Outside of the cruxes, the climbing felt like 11/12- climbing, with occasional easier moves. Get on it. A good way to get used to the climbing on the wall is to do AG Tummus (11d) -> Girls do Pinchlingue (12b) -> Basted Pikas (12c)

Location 

This route is to the right of black elk speaks. Start in the crack and slowly move to the right, away from the crack. The route will lower about 15 feet over and 6 feet out from the wall.

Protection 

11 bolts and chains


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