|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Pitch 1: Climb up to the small overhang and move around left (awkward); or climb the slab on left up to this point (less protected). Continue up into a small left facing corner. When the corner becomes right-facing move right to a crack (crux) and cruise up into an awesome open book with a small ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the cracks in the right wall. Step right then back left and up to move overhangs. Then traverse far right and follow dirty corner to the top. This pitch is only 5.5 but is very exciting. There is a lot of traversing, so try to avoid placing too much gear and use long slings.
Starts about 20 feet right of Fat City and 40 feet right of Gelsa, at a shallow groove capped by an overhang about 15 feet up.
There are no anchors; you will need to walk off to the right, scrambling easily down to the base just before the road.
SR and long slings.
1st pitch crux...
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
great first pitch, thoughtful and fun moves.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I thought the first pitch was PG. If you don't feel like the second pitch, you can also TR the first pitch of The Hounds by building an anchor by the rap station the top of the first pitch (or possibly half way up the second pitch depending on how you break it up).
May 18, 2011
I only did Pitch 1 and linked to P3 of Yellow Ridge. I'd like to get back on this climb and find the 5.7 moves of the crux - it was damn hard I thought! Gear, like a friend put eloquently, is "creative".
Jul 20, 2014
IMHO the P1 crux (Photo) was pretty darn stiff for 5.7. Fell on a gold BD nut (it's still there). Was glad I took the time to place it well. Second attempt I went up on the right side which seemed easier.