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The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 
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Basilisk Fang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jason Fico, Larry De Angelo
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Apr 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


Pretty good climbing starting on the left side of the formation, then trending up and right. There are some fragile edges and fins that will wear away with a few more ascents. The rock is generally sound and the climbing enjoyable.


A standard rack to 3" should do. It takes wires and cams and the pro is good.

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By EricD
Oct 31, 2009

Be ready for loose stuff beyond the ledges. My wife pulled a chunk as large as her torso off this one. This along with the descent from the route makes you forget that the climbing is actually pretty good.

I used two cams as directionals for the second and stoppers exclusively for protection. Solid placements the entire way.
By Canon
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

LOOSE! Broke off both handholds simultaneously while above my first piece of gear. Thought I was going to deck into the scrub oak for sure. Spent the rest of the climb trying not to soil myself.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 29, 2014

An elegant, easy climb. We encountered no loose rock to speak of. The Dementor rap is longer and brushier than one might expect from the guidebook.
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