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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

Basilisk Fang 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jason Fico, Larry De Angelo
Page Views: 434
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Apr 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Pretty good climbing starting on the left side of the formation, then trending up and right. There are some fragile edges and fins that will wear away with a few more ascents. The rock is generally sound and the climbing enjoyable.


Protection 

A standard rack to 3" should do. It takes wires and cams and the pro is good.



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By EricD
Oct 31, 2009

Be ready for loose stuff beyond the ledges. My wife pulled a chunk as large as her torso off this one. This along with the descent from the route makes you forget that the climbing is actually pretty good.

I used two cams as directionals for the second and stoppers exclusively for protection. Solid placements the entire way.

By Canon
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

LOOSE! Broke off both handholds simultaneously while above my first piece of gear. Thought I was going to deck into the scrub oak for sure. Spent the rest of the climb trying not to soil myself.