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Bubba Buttress
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Basic Bubba Crack 
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Man From Planet Zog, The 

Basic Bubba Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Parker, Garret Dudley (March 1987)
Page Views: 857
Submitted By: DaveB on Jul 10, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...


Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).


From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.


Hands (and larger if you want). No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball...

Photos of Basic Bubba Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
BETA PHOTO: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route stays in crack and tops-out to the left of roof. Horizontal cam at top left face to protect TR'ing second and reduce potential anchor swing.)
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
Left around roof, ascend crack.
BETA PHOTO: Left around roof, ascend crack.
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By attila
Oct 3, 2010

You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. Had to descend to retrieve cams several times in order to reuse them higher up; the wide width of the crack gave me little other choice. An inconvenience on a worthwhile route.