The Backdoor is the southernmost area at Long Dong. It is accessed via the south parking area and is almost completely self-contained. It also has one of the highest concentrations of routes, especially hard sport. Thus, on most decent days it will be swarming with people... or, if you're lucky, completely empty. It is made up of four distinct areas: B1, B2, Old Man Wall, and Little Turtle Island. All of these areas have their own characteristics.
The first crag you come to, just below the stone stairs, is B1. It is fairly short and contains several beginner to moderate climbs of decent quality that can have anchors setup from above for top-roping parties. The bolts here are currently all untrustworthy expansions from circa 2000, so trad gear is required for top anchors. The shallow cave is oriented northeast, so it gets shade earlier than most of the rest of the crag. Routes here start at Under the Staircase and continue to Water Heater Route.
Once you climb down the groove in the rock to the narrow platform below, you have entered B2. This is the area that most people refer to when they say "Backdoor" as this is where the crowds congregate. Several short and rarely-done trad/boulder routes ascend the cracks from here back up to platform above. Passing below these, you will step up onto the main deck. Here, just to the right of the Basement Corner, a tall, beautiful, grid-bolted cliff presents itself. Starting with Olive Branch, and continuing all the way to Hermit Crab and beyond, twenty sport routes are squeezed in here. They range in grade from hard 10's to easy 14's, and are all of fairly good quality, until you reach the far right side.
In October 2013, Alex Honnold sent an unfinished project that was thought to be 14-, but which he reported to be 13-.
The rock here is notably different from the rest of the area. It is less frictiony and porous than other areas, holds tend to be less juggy and obvious, and there are few slabs. As a result, grades tend to be a bit steeper for the sport climbs. However, there are a few high-quality trad climbs that break up the face. The rock here used to be chossy, but the crowds have done a good job of cleaning things up. However, to the right of Rodeo Clown, the rock gets nasty again. Check out the fallen slab with a bolt in it that perfectly illustrates the "big" overall problem of instability at Long Dong.
If you continue up and over the boulders to the often wet section called the Old Man Wall. Here you will find a dozen more routes ranging from 10's to 13's. This section is rarely climbed, although the routes are supposedly decent quality, if you don't mind half of your holds being glued on.
Little Turtle Mountain, on the other side of the gully, is almost never climbed. There are some leftover relics of early climbing here, as well as the curving weakness of Three Legged Dog that takes you up to the scenic platform above.
When tides are calm, pretty much only in the summer, you can walk out Crocodile Cape and swim in the inlet. Or bust a backflip off of the snout. You could also traverse from here over to the Cathouse. Just be careful though as there are strong currents and sneaker waves.
From the southern temple entrance, walk down the steps opposite the bathrooms, and follow the trail down. Look for the stone staircase that takes you down to the table of rock called the Backdoor. It's just around the corner from here. You will have to do some precarious scrambling and down-climbing. Non-climbers and animal-lovers beware.
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For (1) Backdoor
Dragon with Matches 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Asia
: ... : (1) Backdoor
A great alternative to clipping all those bolts! Between Big Rock Falling and Harley Davidson, right in the middle of the Basement area, locate a sweet dihedral with a low roof. Start on the ledge that runs below all of the climbs here. Place a tiny cam (0 Metolius) behind the left-hand flake, then make a big pull to get up onto the face. Continue up til you're ducking below the roof. Good #2 here. Step left, then stem and jam up the crack. Mix up some crack and fa...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Old Man Wall
Above the Basement
A little reflection on rock quality...
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
4 days ago
A stick clip is highly recommended for climbing any of the hard sport routes here. The bolts aren't necessarily high, but you have to step onto a 2-meter bench and then pull super-awkward bouldery moves to mount the face on most routes.
Or just do what 阿郎 does and swing a bight of rope into your draw...