A descent route with crack and face climbing, and good rest positions.
Begin on the right side of the major crack system running through the middle of the boulder, 5 feet to the right of You Are What You Eat. Follow this crack up for about 20 feet, and then face climb past the bolts up to the anchor.
The PG rating can be eliminated by placing some medium sized gear in the crack down low. Clip 3-4 bolts on your way up to the chain anchors.
BETA PHOTO: 6 bolts to the anchor. I used a cam for the first...
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Fun steep climbing on big positive holds. If you are here, do it!
|By Erik Campos|
From: Fort Bragg, NC
Jun 14, 2011
I counted 6 bolts to the chain anchor. Someone must of added 2 more. Rough start for me but it was fun.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
@Erik- the three bolts right of the crack are for Baseboy Direct, 5.11a. Baseboy goes up the crack to the left and skips the .11a crux and joins Baseboy Direct just above the crux. There are 3 bolts on Baseboy.
|By Sandy Crimp|
Jun 15, 2013
Why replace the bolts when just the mussy's (or really just the right one) needed replacement? I understand that what you did was a gift of your time and money, and I do appreciate that. It is great when people like you give back. Really!
I am more concerned that people OVER-DO it, and I am just wondering why you would go through the trouble of replacing PERFECTLY good bolts. It is nice that you patched the holes , and you did a really GREAT job at it. I know there was some thought that the bolts where not even, so there was greater wear on the right mussy...that is true, but I still think this fix was overdone. Just dropping in a new right mussy would have been fine, or evening them out with links, etc.
Dan, This is more of a general comment and not specifically picking on you. You have made some GREAT contributions (BBWolf and Meet Up are both quality additions), but I have seen SEVERAL over zealous "FIX" or "REPLACEMENT" efforts that ultimately lead to unnecessary wear on the rock. Even patched holes are a probelem in the LONG term. We should replace TRULY BAD bolts and leave the others as they are.
Were the new bolts/hangers stainless? IF not...what you did is VERY short sighted, and the community would have been way better off with simply a new mussy which could have been replaced every few years for about $3 and with NO wear/tear on the rock.
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 18, 2013
Do I know you? I donít think I do so Iím assuming you donít know me either. Are you some kind of bully? Are your capital letters supposed to intimidate me or scare me? Good luck with that.
Since you donít know me, I can also assume you donít know my experience, my ethics, and the review of all possible solutions I go through before I make any changes to otherís fixed gear. Maybe it is my mistake, but I assumed that by showing the uneven bolts, and showing that the right hook was severely worn, that it would be obvious that the anchor bolts needed to be leveled. And I also assumed climbers would see the fix, including the patched holes, and think ďgood jobĒ. I didnít think I needed to spell out, in detail, every possible scenario I looked at before reaching my conclusion, just to appease the negative posters like you seem to be. Obviously I was wrong so now I will go through and document all of the decisions I made.
I would really like to address every one of your bullshit comments, but Iím just going to throw a blanket over them and call them all bullshit. Were you there with me? Did you see the anchor and the surrounding rock? Did you assess all possible solutions with me? Do you even know you canít level out a mussy hook type anchor by adding one link? The total number of links must be an odd number or the hook will lay flat against the rock. By your comments Iím guessing you have no clue about that. The gap between the higher bolt and the lower bolt was just uneven enough to be impossible to level the hooks out by adding links.
So here are the considerations I went through before removing and drilling. Was it just the right hook that was worn and the left one was fine? No, both had serious wear issues. The left hook was wearing into a knife edge because of the way the rope went over one side, then up to the next hook. See picture below. So I couldnít replace just one. Both needed to be replaced. But you werenít there so how would you know that? Should I just remove/replace one bolt to even them out? No because the quality and shape of the rock did not permit that solution, and I wasnít about to chisel out a flat spot for the hanger to fit in given how featured the surrounding rock is. Again, the best solution was to replace both. As for your comment on stainless and ďVERY short sightedĒ Ė this is not Thailand, it is the desert. I donít see how changing out an imperfect anchor with a perfect anchor will cause more wear on the rock. SeriouslyÖ
I could keep going and blow holes in every one of your comments but Iíve made my point. Maybe you should consider contacting me directly to find out the details next time before spewing such a negative post. But then, your post just shows what kind of person you are and I guess that is a good thing for people to see.
| || Left hook wearing to a knife edge |