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Winter Warmer Area
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At Fault for Chattery 
Basalt and Battery 
Chossy Achievers 
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Electrocuticles 
F.A.T.A.L. 
Fenced In 
Foul Play 
Franklin's Tower (originally submitted as G-Spot) 
G-Spot (originally submitted as Power of Tower) 
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Insult and Flattery 
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No Gumbies 
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Stickin' It To The Man 
Ugly Stick 
Unknown? 
Wagoner's Way 
Winter Warmer 

Basalt and Battery 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Field and Martin Birch
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: Ryan Farris on Jan 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Heading into the crux, "Basalt and Battery".
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Description 

This is a great route usually away from the crowds. It can be a long two pitch climb if you add "Insult and Flatterly, 12c," to it. Note the second pitch has some bolts that are bad and missing. The first pitch is nice and feels committing as you approach the ledge where the anchors are. This climb is located in the fence area to the far right of "Winter Warmer" climb.


Protection 

Quickdraws to a two bolt anchor above ledge. This is an established route so check bolts. Addendum: thin gear may be useful around the 1st bolt.



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By Darin Lang
Mar 31, 2002

The crux comes before the first bolt, which is a bit high IMO. Stick clip or a #6 stopper could come in handy.

By Doug Redosh
Nov 13, 2002

This route was put up by Dave Field and Martin Birch back in 1992 or so. It takes some extra small camming units. I always felt the crux was up higher in the flaring corner.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 7, 2003

Darin's comment on the first move is good advice. The corner above is subtle. There certainly are easier 10s at Table Mountain...

By Bo Johnston
Nov 19, 2006

This route was not much harder than 10c. The boulder moves up to the first bolt are serious, but if you get moving and don't look back, you'll be there before you know it. The flared dihedral in the middle is definitely the crux. The book says pro to 2"?? Were bolts added to the route? I don't even see where you'd need 2". Small cams could help in the beginning.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Nov 28, 2009

I'll admit, felt a bit stiff for a 10. A good spot will get you up to the first bolt. The mid section is indeed tricky. Great route, though.

By Ernie Moskovics
Apr 11, 2013

FA: Dave Field and Martin Birch, I was only in on the 2nd ascent. "Basalt and Battery" is another classic name from Dave. We got a wire placement before the first bolt, if you bother to bring gear. We may have also used Lowe Balls up higher.