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Baruntse Question
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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Oct 31, 2011
portrait <br />

Has anyone been climbing in these? how well do they climb steep ice, how is the warmth, weight and comfort on long days (hiking into the backcountry...snow gullies...etc...?


thanks!


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Oct 31, 2011
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html

that'll answer all your questions


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By Dane
Oct 31, 2011
Cham '11

If that doesn't, this should....one pair are Scarpa 6000s, the other Baruntse's.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Oct 31, 2011
portrait <br />

Thanks guys! I had seen Dane's blog prior to the question. I guess what I am looking for is how they perform on technical ice and mixed terrain. I have been using the EVO's for years, but have discovered that once they went away from the old nepal tops, the design in the toe box changed a bit and I have been having trouble keeping toe nails on my feet!! lol I went to the scarpa Mont Blancs (very nice boot) but found that the heel lift was just too great...never had blisters, but on vertical Ice, my calves would burn like I have never felt before...just trying to keep the heels up. So I am looking for a replacement boot for the Nepals...for NEw Hampshire winters in the notches and on Mount Washington. I am considering the Phantom guides, but tried on the Baruntses at IME yesterday and was really impressed. They do seem a bit more lunky and so I fear that their ability to climb steep waterfall ice will be an issue? What do you guys think?


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By Dane
Oct 31, 2011
Cham '11

I've used them on the standard WI6 stuff in the Rockies and while not a Nepal Evo for being nimble they'll do the job. One thing you won't have is tired calves in these. Tons of ankle support and easy to climb hard technical terrain in them. Easier than the Spanitks by far imo..and I own both. But they are real double boots, technical mixed ground is an acquired taste in them. Ice? It is easy.

Best to think of them as an over grown Nepal Evo I think.

Once properly heat formed to your feet you won't find a better fitting boot. I use my Baruntse liners in my Spantiks if that gives you any idea just how good.

Down side? They could weigh less. But that can be changed as well by a resole.

Heels up? You serious? Heels should be down. No boot will protect your calves if you want to keep your heels up or keep you crampons in the ice for that matter :)

Phantom Guide has exactly the same sole (flex and rigidity) as a Mt Blanc and less ankle support.

Baruntse is over kill for where you are climbing. Oobviously so if the Baruntse will easily summit Denali without over boots.

The Nepal Evo is a great boot. And you can (any good ski shop with boot fitters can) easily stretch the toe box to fit on a pair of Nepal Evos.

Which is what I would buy and do....in your position.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Heels up to get them back to level....they slipped so much they felt like they would fall off. The boots would drop down, but my feet inside would fight to readjust to the proper and comfortable position. With the Mont Blancs I always felt like I had boots on...they were a separate entity and not part of my foot like other boots had been in the past. Simply bought them too big. Very beautiful and well made boot, comfortable hikers too!

Clipping the 1st screw. Mont Blancs in action...
Clipping the 1st screw. Mont Blancs in action...


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Funny...I may end up going full circle and go back to the EVO's. I tried the Baturas which I loved but the lace lock was positioned right over scar tissue from a previous ankle surgery and created a great deal of pain and swelling (left foot only). They were about the best boot I have used. Still, in the back of my mind I worried about the zipper...but for the season that I used the Bat's...I experienced no problems and the feet were warm. Then I moved to the Mont Blanc...not the right boot for me...now I am in a pair of Kayland M11+ which hike like no other boot I have ever worn, seem to be warm though I only used them at the end of last season...guided some gullies on Mt. Washington but did no technical ice with them. They are super lightweight, soles seem rigid enough, so we will see how they stand up to a New England winter this season. Regardless of how they perform on ice, I will be hanging on to these for early and late season climbing. So back to the EVO...hmm. maybe I will have my daughters paint my black toe nails red! lol :)


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Dane wrote:
Baruntse is over kill for where you are climbing. Oobviously so if the Baruntse will easily summit Denali without over boots.


Um....not necessariliy. On an average day in January on Mount Washington the winds can be upward of 60MPH (steady) with a wind chill of -35. This is a pic of us on the summit. Guided trip in December. 65 MPH winds -40F.
Mount Washington Summit Pic (2010)
Mount Washington Summit Pic (2010)


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Last year in january with the windchill it was close to -80 on Mt. Washington... definitely not overkill (though we didnt leave harvard cabin that day)

We get much worse temps out here than the NW.

Chris, I have used the baruntse, but to be honest.. imo the spantik is similar but the more technical version. They are more flexible, and I use them on Mt washington / all over NH with no issues. for what you are looking to do, Id recommend the spantik over the baruntse anyday. They are pretty pricey at $700, but if you look around you can get a good deal (I paid 375 for a almost brand new pair with no defects)


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

fun...
fun...


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

superkick wrote:


There you go! lol Crazy up there. I live about 20 minutes from Mt. Washington and have been climbing its flanks for well over 25 years now...nothing surprises me. The Winds have been over 230 MPH up there and frequently tip the needle past 100 in the winter months. They still may be a bit overkill as I don't have the time to do multiple days up there anymore, so I generally do day trips and Crag at Frankenstein and the local haunts. Kind of spying the Phantom Guides...that might be a nice compromise! Sweet looking boot!


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Hey Chris, given that you live close by how are the conditions looking up there.. aka any idea when you think Mt. Washington (huntington ravine) or stuff like frankenstein will be good to start climbing?


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Hey Superkick!

Its looking good up there. Alan Catabrigga sent Damnation with a friend last week...verglas and rock!! Crazy bastard! lol

Temps are supposed to rise this week, so no telling really, but there has been snow on the rockpile for over two weeks now. There is usually great climbing up in Tucks by Thanksgiving break. Frankenstein has a ways to go yet.

Central looked nice this morning on my way by! ;)Tempting...


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Pete Doucette and Erik Eisle sent the BLack Dike last week as well...I think there may have even been some ice in it!! lol


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Sounds good, planning to get out for the first time this season on the weekend of the 19th up in huntingtons. Was just hoping the conditions would be good snow/ice wise and wont be a waste of a 3 hour car drive (terrible weather is fine though..ha).

But from what youve said sounds like Mt. washington should be good to go. I figured the storm this past weekend kicked things up a notch. Was trying to scope out the conditions through MWOBS (which looked decent) but figured locals would know the story. Thanks!


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

We received about 4-5" in the Valley, a bit more up north. They got slammed in the Southern part of the state though. We could have used it up here! ;)


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

So I am leaning more towards the Phantom Guides now...hmmmmm....


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

Its really just whatever you personally find to be the most comfortable (and warm depending if youre a cold foot person)


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By DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Nov 1, 2011

Because the Baruntse is an expedition boot, you can often find them for very cheap after being used for a single trip. I picked mine up in almost perfect condition for $250 from a guy that did a few weeks in the Himalayas. But then my South America plans got mislayed and I have kept using my beat up Nepal Tops for winter in Ontario.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Good suggestion...I will keep my eye out for sure. Always buzzing the net for deals anyway! ;)


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By Dane
Nov 1, 2011
Cham '11

"We get much worse temps out here than the NW."

Not really. Try one of the volcanos in winter. D.A. comment. But very few will use a dbl boot to crag here in the NW or on the volcanos in winter. And very few use a dbl boot for crag climbing in the Rockies.

Were we have road side temps as cold as the summit of Mt. Wa. on a regular basis. Double boots have their place. But lets not pretend.

"imo the spantik is similar but the more technical version. They are more flexible"

Nice opinion but they aren't and they are not.
Tiny advantage in weight how ever (2 oz) and if reliable, the lacing system on the Spantik shell is easier to use. If it is reliable. Baruntse linner is much easier to use and warmer.

45s
La Sportiva Spantik 3#.05oz / 1362g
La Sportiva Baruntse 3#2.5oz / 53oz 1502g

I like this combo if it is cold enough to require it.
La Sportiva Spantik with a Baruntse liner 2# 12oz / 1247g


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

To each his own..thats just my personal opinion having used both.

Out of curiosity though...

Is there any way to get a baruntse liner without buying both boots.. as I would defintily agree the liner in the baruntse is much more user friendly and warmer. buying both boots just to chnage the liner is out of my $$$ range though.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Nov 1, 2011
Cleo's Needle

I think LS is selling them now or you can email Palau and buy them directly.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 1, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

dane..just saw the post in your blog regarding such, except unfortunantly they no longer sell the baruntse liners on sportiva's website, and I dont speak french so cant read much on Palau's site.


they still sell spantik liners on sportiva's site though..go figure...


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Nov 1, 2011
portrait <br />

Hey Dane...just tried the Scarpa Jorasses Pro and it felt very similar to the Mont Blanc. Do you know if the Phantom Guide is a narrower boot with less heel slip / volume?


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By Dane
Nov 1, 2011
Cham '11

The Guide will be similar to the Mt. Blanc but I find the Guide/Batura style boots harder to lace your foot in tight.
They are built with the same sole/midsole/last.

The difference in "stiffness" of the Spantik and the Baruntse isn't an opinion. The boots are made differently with the intention of the Spantik having a stiff over all outer boot. Try both skiing and you'll get the idea.

One of the reasons the Spantiks is so stiff is because of the carbon midsole. That required La Sportiva to rocker the sole more so it would be easier to walk in, even on snow. The other is the huge one piece plastic insert sewn to the heel and both sides of the ankle on the Spantik. Makes for a decent ski boot, not all that great for French tecnnique. Slightly better than the plastics. But the up side is they do front point well on enduance ice.

Even La Spotiva had a hard time deciding how to promote the Baruntse. But the one thing it is not, is a "less technical" double boot than the Spantik.


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