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Routes in Isis Buttress
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Arapilumps T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bart's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dead Boy Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flaked Out T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Isis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Tut T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Living Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ramses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Road Kill T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shinbuster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sport Pages T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Goldstein & Calkins 2007 |
| Page Views: | 1,425 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Oct 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
In memoriam Bart Calkins (1947-2007).
An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.
Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.
The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.
Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.
An interesting pitch would should get some traffic once it cleans up -- I hope to get back to it w/ a wire brush.
Mostly enjoyable 5.7-5.8 fingers and laybacking in a square cut crack. The crux is passing the pod/mouth which is a lot easier if one is aggressive and underclings the outside; if one insists on staying near the gear and potential gear, OW groveling comes into play and it will seem hard for the grade.
The route ends at a good ledge w/ anchors and a 60' rap.
Captain Queeg, in The Cain Mutiny: "there are four ways of doing things ... the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way." I always thought this quote more than summed up the full range of possibility, but after hanging out with Bart, I realized there was at least one more approach, Bart's Way.
Location
On the wall which forms a corner just to the left of Shinbuster, there is an obvious, diagonaling crack/corner which passes a mouth-shaped pod. Bart's Way follows this feature, starting a ways downhill of the start of Shinbuster and ending above the vicinity of the start of Shinbuster.
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