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Barretts Cove Cliff

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After Seven S 
Bob's Route T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Desperado T,S 
Eqinox T 
Fourth of July T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Web, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Barretts Cove Cliff 


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Location: 44.24701, -69.08471 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,598
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Anchor at the top of Charlotte's Crack, pitch 2

Description 

This Attractive 250 foot cliff, with an overall angle of about 70 degrees, provides the most accessible climbing in the Camden area, and it quite warm due to its southeast exposure. HOwever, it dries slowly, and the right side remains damp for the majority of the summer.

Barretts is primarily a traditional area, with occasional runouts serving to spice up otherwise moderate climbs. Make sure you bring your small protection.

The majority of the climbs at barretts are two pitches in length, and require face climbing skills. Two double rope rappels will get you down the cliff, you can also walk off the descent gully, by going left at the top of the cliff.


Getting There 

Park along ROute 52 just south of the road to the town beach at Barrett's cove on lake megunticook. Hike in along the climbers path, which starts near the high end of the paved pulloff. The hike up takes about 3-5 minutes.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barretts Cove Cliff:
Old Spice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Old Stud   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Barretts Cove Cliff

Featured Route For Barretts Cove Cliff
The thin crack in the red face, right of Poison Ivy anchors

Fourth of July 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c ME : Camden Hills : Barretts Cove Cliff
5 feet right of the Poison Ivy anchor on Broadway, a couple face moves leads to a thin finger crack that fades in and out. When the crack fades out climb to a bolt, then straight up the face to some pockets where gear can be found. Climb a short vertical section to two rusty but beefy bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Barretts Cove Cliff Add Comment
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By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 6, 2012

What is the hard one to the left of Charlie's Crack?