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Barnum Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accidental Tourist 
Ann Bay Lee 
Ars Fabrilis 
Beatle Bay Lee 
Beavis 
Butthead 
Cornholio 
El Diablo 
Feed The Sweed 
Foul Fowl 
GumBold-er 
Gumby-B-Bold 
Memorial Daze 
No Hope Without Dope 
Pizz Whiz 
Ranger Danger 
Sweet Pea 
Twin Peaks 
Unsorted Routes:

Barnum Rock 


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Page Views: 8,350
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on May 30, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Barnum Rock from the parking pullout
Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Barnum is a nice rock high on the mountain with a reasonably short approach and a number of easy but fun routes. Most of the routes are bolted with chain anchors. The 7500' altitude and trees for shade make this a comfortable area to climb when the temps are rising in the valley.


Getting There 

Park in the turnout on the left side of the road about 1/10th a mile before the 18 mile marker. Cross the road and head up the drainage for the obvious cliff. The trail is now pretty obvious and well-marked with cairns.


18 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',9],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Barnum Rock
Racked up and ready to push into the unknown on what may have been the FA of "Cornholio".

Cornholio 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Barnum Rock
3 (or 2) Pitch route. Wear Helmets! Pitch 1: 90', takes either "Bevis" or "Butthead" to the chains, B/C. Pitch 2: 30-35', heads left along the belay ledge then up and right via a low angle ramp. Once 7-10' above the belay step right around the bulge (exposed but easy)to a small dihedral and climb face just right of crack/small right facing dihedral to belay ledge with 7-8" diameter tree for an anchor, Trad. When stepping onto the 2ed belay ledge be very careful not to pull on the completely disc...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Barnum Rock
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2012
By Vincent Greene
Jun 2, 2004

Barnum rock is mentioned in the Steiger guide and Squeezing the Lemmon II without any detail. This is in the same area as Gumby wall, but is accessed from the west side. We are calling the west and south face the Bay Lee wall in the route descriptions. GPS coordinates are: N32.40089 W110.69644

By Bob
Jun 11, 2004

In 2008, this area is closed between February 1 and August 31 - for nesting peregrine falcons and Mexican Spotted Owls.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2005

Some fun climbs in here, especially the 5.9..

Suitable for beginning leaders if they have a good lead head, there are some should-not-fall situations, runouts on easy slabs and ledges..

By Jeremy Jones
Sep 9, 2008

The parking pull out is just before mile marker 18 not after it.When driving up the mountain. I have added a picture of Barnum Rock you can see from the parking area. I hope this helps you find it.

By Mark and Stacy Egan
Oct 2, 2008

There is another sport route that doesn't seem to be listed yet in the Mountain Project beta to the right of Ranger Danger that feels in the 5.7 range, though perhaps a bit more vertical than many of the 5.7s here. There are chains at the top.

By Jenna Ashler
Sep 6, 2010

Great area for moderate sport routes. Barnum is great because the approach is short, <5 mins, and hardly has a climbing party there, even when open for climbing. (Of course, see falcon closures.) I suggest climbing here in the morning, as the sun can be very hot. Or even in later fall/winter. Would be nice for a topo/overhead of the area.

By Gerry Cook
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 6, 2010

Found a gold Black Diamond belay device here on 9/5/10. Is it yours?

By k-leigh
Sep 13, 2010

I was with a climbing party on 9/4/10, and two different pieces of gear fell from pretty far up on two separate routes. I believe one was an ATC type device, the other was a biner. It's advisable to not use these if found.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 30, 2011

From what I can tell from reading all the route discriptions the routes from left to right are:
Sweet Pea
El Diablo
Twin Peaks
Foul Fowl
Beatle Bay Lee
Trail Meets Cliff*
Memorial Daze
Ranger Danger
Ann Bay Lee
Bevis
Butthead
No Hope W/O Dope(alternate PW start)
Pizz Whiz

Is this correct? If not please correct. Are there any more routes that are not listed here?

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 10, 2011

Awesome climbing here for the 5.7 leader. We did some trail work and built some more cairns this weekend.

By aequis
From: Vail, AZ
Sep 24, 2012

Wondering who is working routes far left and uphill from main wall. Went today and awkwardly linked two bolts on downhill (right, facing wall) to belay ledge w/skinny tree, then moved btw tower and main wall to vertical climbing ending w/chains. Did not notice the nearly fully bolted route uphill from our start, left side of tower, until rapping down. Whoever this was/is, good job and thanks, noticed lines for a few more possibles here as well.