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Routes in The East End
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Barn Dance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roof Burner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Thief of Wives V6 7A PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | (FFA) Jim Craighead and Mark Wehde, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,037 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on May 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
The route ascends a crack inside the large corner to the right of Roof Burner. Go up the initial large steps and commit to an awkward bulging hand crack (5.10a). Above the bulge the route eases off to 5.7-8. The rock is solid throughout the crux but becomes rotten higher up and feels like climbing bookshelves in a library (belayers beware). It is also difficult to place any reliable pro in the upper section. The best way to finish the route is to continue up the corner until it is possible to traverse diagonally left onto solid rock and clip the anchors for Roof Burner.
The moves through the crux are interesting and fun and it would be a great climb if it wasn't for the loose rock above.
The moves through the crux are interesting and fun and it would be a great climb if it wasn't for the loose rock above.
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