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Bam Bam S 
Barney's Crack T 
Bear, The T 
Bedrock's Latest T,S 
Betty T,S 
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Stoneage Struggle T 
Thin Wires T 
Wally World T 

Barney's Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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This is a great route and an East A classic! Tricky moves up a slab lead to varied and interesting face climbing. Finish up the nice steep finger crack then mantle to a small ledge with bolts.


This is between Gorilla Crack and The Squeeze.


Blue - yellow Aliens, small - medium stoppers, 8 bolts.

Comments on Barney's Crack Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Nov 14, 2007

This is one of the best routes at East A.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Apr 21, 2010

Heady start for sure. Some of those bolts could be replaced if anyone's looking for something to do/put money into.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Anybody know why all the bolts on Barney's Crack looked bashed in?
By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Oct 16, 2012

I've heard a story as to why the bolts look so bad, but I haven't heard it first hand, so enough said. All I know for sure is that the bolts need to be replaced. This is a stellar climb that needs new hardware. If anyone has the time and money, this is a worthy project. Thanks.
By knowbuddy
Oct 19, 2012

Pretty poor quality rock and shitty bolts make this an interesting pitch. Looked like there were a good amount of freshly broken holds on it yesterday .
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Nov 27, 2012

Several bolts that were in the worst shape have been replaced, though the old studs still need to be removed if anyone has a steel chisel, I'd be happy to do it myself.

What do you folks think of replacing the first bolt with the mangled hanger? If it were replaced ,the draw when clipped would not hang over that hand hold and could potentially alter how the route climbs, is this nit picky or a legit concern?
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Dec 11, 2012

First bolt needs to be moved 6" to the right for sure.
By -mn
Dec 12, 2012

Or 12" lower so you don't crater if you blow it. I'd talk to Joel and Tim? (FA) though, before you go and "re-place" anything else on this route. Sam - are you going to saw those studs off and patch the holes? Yeah, this is one of the best - the last 20ft. anyway - and funkiest routes up there. ..miles

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